Outside of Bohemian Creamery in Sebastopol, a herd of goats grazes and gazes over the grassy plains of the Laguna de Santa Rosa, all the way to the sloping shoulders of Mount St. Helena.
But inside the former milking barn, cheesemaker Lisa Gottreich doesn’t have time to enjoy the panorama. She is too busy monitoring the stainless steel cheese vat, where 220 pounds of coagulated cow’s milk wait to be cut by hand.
“This is the only time you see a cheesemaker move,” Gottreich said, carefully lowering the curd knife — a large paddle with horizontal wires — in order to cut the curds and extract the solids from the whey.
Over the course of the next few hours, the 52-year-old never seems to stop moving, her hands a blur of molding and draining, rinsing and mopping.
“I used to have a desk job, so I’m sick of sitting,” she said. “I like scrubbing the floor because you get instant results. It’s not like making cheese, which takes months and months.”
After the curds are sliced vertically, Gottreich and her assistant quickly scoop them into colanders and plop them down on stainless steel tables, where the liquid whey runs off into buckets.
That evening, the solid curds will be pressed, then flipped and pressed again, all to extract as much whey as possible, before going into a brine bath for the next two months.
That’s when this batch of soft, rich Boho Belle cheese, reminiscent of the Bel Paese cheese of Lombardy, Italy, will emerge at the Healdsburg Cheese Shop and at restaurants all over the Bay Area.
While most chefs serve Bohemian Creamery cheeses on cheese plates, some, like Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, use them in dishes, from French onion soup to ravioli.
“What I love about Lisa is that she is very creative and passionate,” said chef Dustin Valette, who showcases Bohemian Creamery cheeses at the Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg. “She’s a chef’s cheesemaker.”
Gottreich is part of a new wave of Sonoma County cheesemakers joining veterans such as Bellwether Farms and Redwood Hill Farm in raising the bar for the North Bay’s array of cheeses.
Like a Wine Country chef, Gottreich will give a classic cheese her own twist. Her first cheese, Capriago, is a play on Italy’s semifirm Asiago cheese, but made with goat’s instead of cow’s milk. Her sweet and nutty Cowabunga showcases a thin ribbon of cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) running through it.
“I’m using Cowabunga right now at the restaurant,” Valette said. “It’s a sweet, sticky goat cheese inside, and a fresh, briny cow’s milk flavor on the outside.”
Gottreich uses Russian River Brewing Company’s Consecration, an ale aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, to wash the rinds of The Bomb, a sheep-goat blend fashioned after France’s stinky Epoisses cheese. HolyMoly, a soft-ripened goat cheese with lots of eyes (holes), also gets a Consecration wash.
Like many cheesemakers, Gottreich fell into the field by accident, after pursuing a string of careers. “I’m basically unemployable,” she said. “Whatever I do, I have to do it for myself.”
The daughter of immigrants from Hungary and Sweden, Gottreich grew up in Bolinas in West Marin, surrounded by goats and other farm animals.
She majored in economics and philosophy at UC Berkeley, studied abroad in Padua, Italy, then returned to Italy to work in film. After graduate studies in European Integration in Washington, D.C., she worked on trade issues with the U.S. and the European Union.
Lisa Gottreich and her assistant, Lauren Helvajian, stir the curd to break up larger clumps so it can cook evenly. (photo by Chris Hardy)
All the while, she was exploring cheese, eventually taking the plunge into production after a sudden divorce left her with two kids to raise.
“I like it because it’s multifaceted,” she said. “I take care of my goats for a while, then I make cheese, and then I schmooze with chefs.”
Starting out in 2008 with a leased vat in the town of Bodega, Gottreich expanded two years later to her current Sebastopol digs, just a minute from her home. She credits her creativity to her ingrained “stubbornness.”
“I ask, ‘What can’t be done?’” she said. “And then I try to make it happen.”
One of her new experiments involves a “surf and turf” cheese, featuring dried, toasted seaweed culled from the Sonoma Coast.
Also in the works is a tasting room where visitors can purchase her cheeses and take a tour of the aging rooms, where Gottreich works her magic in the mysterious ripening process known as affinage.
“If you’re a piece of cheese, it’s in your intent to grow old,” Gottreich said. “It’s nice to work with something where age is respected.”
As Sebastopol heritage turkey farmer Catherine Thode prepares her table for Thanksgiving, there will be one less family member at home. Bubba Bird, a purebred Narragansett turkey, died recently at age 9 — a long, rich life for the breed.
Boutique birds live better lives and stir memories of how Thanksgiving used to taste. (Photos by Chris Hardy)
So while the Thode Family Farm clan will feast, as they always do, on one of their own heritage birds with all the trimmings, the members will pause to salute what they all agree was one very special fowl friend.
“We keep about 25 breeder boys year-round,” said Thode, who never really meant to become a professional farmer. But during the past decade of raising her sons in Sonoma County 4-H, she found her family’s 2.5-acre property increasingly bustling with rare-strain chickens, ducks and turkeys.
Most tom turkeys past breeding age of 3 to 5 find themselves on a platter with parsley, yet “Bubba was such a character, a total showboat,” Thode said with a laugh. “He won a reserve championship. So he stayed with us in his retirement and hung out with some of his ladies.”
Although few people will go so far as to raise a Thanksgiving entrée in their backyard, more home cooks are embracing boutique birds like Bubba, choosing them over factory-farmed Broad Breasted White turkeys, a domestic breed that is the standard for most holiday tables. Heritage fans seek the depth of flavor and darker meat of birds that are raised in pastures and fed organic feed formulated to specifications of the Livestock Conservancy, an organization that has supported heritage turkey breeds dating to the Pilgrims.
It’s efficient and economical to raise poultry industrially, Thode said, “But we’ve lost flavor along the way. The system nearly wiped out older breeds that were historically celebrated. I always thought turkey was just OK, pretty dry and bland, mostly a vehicle for gravy. But then I tasted heritage, and wow. Heritage is not like beef versus venison; it’s not gamy like a wild turkey, it’s just more intensely turkey. There’s deeper complexity, more moisture.”
Chuck Thode of Thode Family Farm plays his mandolin to a flock of purebred Narragansett turkeys.
Still, a heritage turkey may not be for everyone, since it has less breast meat than standard turkeys, more thigh, more bone per pound, and firmer texture. Plus, it cooks faster and can dry out if the chef isn’t paying attention.
“Most people are interested in real flavor,” said Molly Best, owner of Thistle Meats in Petaluma. “But many people may not be ready to go to heritage turkey yet, since it seems so ‘farm.’” She calls boutique Broad Breasted a gateway bird, noting that with its majority of white meat, it’s basically the same as a grocery bird, but with a much better life and diet. A Butterball Broad Breasted turkey tag discloses the carcass “contains up to 8% of a solution of water, salt, spices and natural flavor” to artificially plump it up.
In Thode Family Farm’s first year of commercial poultry sales in 2005, about 30 turkeys went to market, Thode said. This year, she’ll sell her maximum capacity of 225 Narragansetts and Standard Bronzes, at $8 a pound and with a lengthy waiting list. For the past decade, she has also headed a fundraising auction in conjunction with her local 4-H and the Russian River Slow Food convivium, scheduled for Nov. 7 at the Flamingo Resort in Santa Rosa. The conference has become increasingly popular, with select birds going for what Thode happily said is “an inflated price.”
Molly Best calls boutique Broad Breasted a gateway bird, noting that with its majority of white meat, it’s basically the same as a grocery bird, but with a much better life and diet.
At Thistle Meats, Best is nearly doubling her order of designer turkeys from last year. Opened last spring, her shop specializes in ethically raised meats sourced only from family farms and ranchers she’s visited and knows well.
In Sebastopol, Victorian Farmstead Meat Co. owner Adam Parks will also double his inventory of boutique birds — like Best, Narragansetts and Spanish Blacks — up from 300 sold in 2014. Parks and Best get their turkeys from BN Ranch of Bolinas, which raises free-range heritage and Broad Breasted White birds with open shelters and non-GMO vegetarian diets.
“It’s a small company, and I feel like (founder Bill Niman) has a personal connection with his animals,” Best said.
The popularity of heritage turkeys marks a dramatic change from 2006, when Willie Bird Turkeys, Sonoma’s grandpappy of boutique poultry, ended a three-year experiment with heritage turkeys. General Manager Greg “Beagle” Brodsky found his customers balked at the price, then a healthy $7.50 a pound, and perhaps the stronger flavor that can be similar to duck.
Willie Bird Turkeys, owned by the Benedetti family since 1948, has 50,000 Broad Breasted Whites.
Instead, the company, owned and operated by the Benedetti family since 1948, focuses on its flock of some 50,000 Broad Breasted Whites, raised in upscale style with free-range pasture and an organic-grain diet. They’re hardly cheap: This year, a 12- to 14-pound Willie Bird is offered online for $128, which includes shipping.
Whatever the breed, the real flavor difference comes in how the bird lived its life, Brodsky and his fellow farmers agree. Instead of being crowded in warehouses like most factory fowl, a happy outdoor bird is a good bird, with defined muscle texture and leaner, more flavorful meat.
“You can taste the fresh air, sunshine and natural grasses,” Parks said. “It may seem a bit tough at first bite, but that’s because there’s more tooth. It’s not mushy and flabby like a commercial bird.”
The Livestock Conservancy categorizes heritage turkeys under strict criteria. They must naturally mate (most industrial farms use artificial insemination), have a long, productive outdoor lifespan (not warehouse pens), and have a slow to moderate rate of growth.
Natural growth is critical to a turkey’s flavor, Thode explained, with meat that develops character through a bird’s longer lifetime. Mass-marketed turkeys have been selected over the decades for how quickly they can go from hatchling to harvest, typically about three months for a grocery-store bird, versus about seven months for a Thode bird. Commercial fowl also have been bred for enormous breasts and more white meat, and are usually harvested many months before sale and then frozen.
Thode harvests the weekend before Thanksgiving, chilling the carcasses but never freezing them.
Natural growth is critical to a turkey’s flavor, Thode explained, with meat that develops character through a bird’s longer lifetime.
If consumers are curious about why a boutique bird costs $8 a pound and more, opposed to less than a dollar as a chain-store holiday special, Thode pointed to the work it takes to handle free-range animals that can fly and have energy-pumped behavior, as turkeys do. For the Slow Food project, children hand-raise the birds from chicks, among them heirloom and endangered breeds such as Blue Slate, Lavender and Bourbon Red.
And in the end, a boutique turkey tastes like real, old-fashioned turkey.
“If your grandparents say (commercial) turkey doesn’t taste like it used to, they’re right,” Thode said. “Plus, we can feel better knowing that even if we eat our turkeys, they were raised correctly and had a very good life.”
Rodney Strong Vineyards in Healdsburg produces a long list of wines, from Bordeaux varietals to Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. (Photo Courtesy of Rodney Strong Vineyards)
Winter is quiet and contemplative in Sonoma, a time when grapevines go dormant and the wines from the 2015 harvest are at rest in cellars. The countryside can be beautiful, dark golden and gray, without a grape leaf in sight. It’s a fine season to stop in at wineries, which are apt to be less busy now that the tourist rush is over. Wine writer VIRGINIE BOONE recommends these wineries for wintertime visits. All are open to the public, typically from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Contact individual tasting rooms to confirm.
This time of year, don’t miss the Syrah and Petite Sirah at Anaba in Sonoma, a Rhone varietal specialist. (Photo courtesy Anaba Vineyards & Winery)
Anaba Wines, 60 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-996-4188, anabawines.com. This Rhone varietal specialist offers a fair amount of fun and educational experiences, including a “Beyond the Label” look at how Anaba wines are made. Offered Friday through Monday at 11 a.m. ($10, reservations required), the session’s topic changes each week. The Salon Tasting is another option, Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. It’s a seated tasting of several wines ($30, reservations required). The Syrah and Petite Sirah are winter favorites.
Auteur Wines, 373 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-938-9211, auteurwines.com. Auteur is open by appointment only, except for Saturdays, when walkins are welcome. It produces exceptional Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from coastal areas and guides visitors through a tasting of five wines at a time ($25). The tasting room is in a cozy house off the Sonoma Plaza, where tastings take place at a communal table fit for conversation and conviviality.
Balletto Vineyards, 5700 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa, 707-568-2455, ballettovineyards.com. The Ballettos are a longtime farming family living in the heart of Russian River Valley. With more than 600 acres of wine grapes, the Balletto winery produces a diverse range of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, many of them vineyard-designates, as well as a crisp Pinot Gris from its BurnsideRoad Vineyard, plus the occasional Zinfandel and Syrah. In addition to its acres of grapes, the winery has a regulation-size baseball field, built for the vineyard crew and lovingly referred to as the Field of Dreams.
Ceja Vineyards, 22989 Burndale Road, Sonoma, 707-255-3954, cejavineyards.com. The Ceja family offers an in-depth dive into Carneros wines at its tasting room, where a sampling of five wines ($20) from its portfolio is available Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Reservations are recommended. Also visit the family’s Carneros Brewing Co. next door, a microbrewery founded by four Ceja brothers. Its taproom and beer garden are open daily.
Dutton-Goldfield, 3100 Gravenstein Highway N., Sebastopol, 707-823-3887, duttongoldfield.com. A producer of cool-climate Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah, as well as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Zinfandel and a fine Pinot Blanc, Dutton-Goldfield offers visitors a taste through several of the wines at a leisurely pace. There are more specific tastings, including Wine & Cheese ($30), Beast & Pinot ($40), and a popular choice, Bright Whites & Sushi ($35). These tastings must be booked ahead online.
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, 10701 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-473-2909, garyfarrellwinery.com. With some of the best views in the Russian River Valley, this winery also produces some of Sonoma’s best wines, from its singlevineyard Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, to Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir rosé. Take in a Terrace Tasting ($25), a hosted sampling of six single-vineyard wines enjoyed alfresco, or book the two-hour tour, tasting and lunch ($75), which concludes with a tasting of six wines on the more private Woodland Terrace.
Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards, 23555 Highway 121, Sonoma, 707-933-1917, gloriaferrer.com. Its recently renovated tasting room and vista terrace are the draws at bubbly expert Gloria Ferrer, where food and sparkling wine always go hand in hand. The daily tasting experience centers on a wine flight or glass paired with nibbles of cheese and charcuterie. Guided tours are offered three times a day, allowing visitors to learn how traditional-method sparkling wine is made, and concludes with a tasting of two sparklers and one Chardonnay or Pinot Noir still wine. Bubbles and Bites, available by reservation daily, is a private tour followed by a seated wine tasting with seasonal bites.
Gundlach Bundschu, 2000 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707-938-5277, gunbun.com. This venerable winery has a wealth of wines on hand to sample, and winter is a good time to venture into the caves for a tasting. A close look at the vineyards is also a possibility. The producer’s Sonoma Coast Gewürztraminer is a particularly fun wine to drink, along with its Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo.
Hawkes Wine, 383 First St. W., Sonoma, 707-938-7620, hawkeswine.com. Based in Alexander Valley, Hawkes maintains a casual tasting home off the Sonoma Plaza, too, inviting visitors to explore its range of wines, many of them made from estate-grown grapes. A vin gris made from Tempranillo is in short supply but well worth trying, as are the Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Also visit Hawkes at 6738 Highway 128, Healdsburg, 707-433-4295.
Iron Horse Vineyards, 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, 707-887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com. This family- run sparkling wine producer also makes outstanding still wines. The estate-grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are noteworthy, and there is an unoaked Chardonnay for fans of a lighter style. A flight of five wines ($20) is a good way to start, with tours available at 10 a.m. daily, by appointment ($25), which also includes a tasting. Book ahead for a private truck tour through the vineyards and a private tasting with winemaker David Munksgard, offered Mondays at 10 a.m. ($50).
Jordan Winery, 1474 Alexander Valley Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-5250, jordanwinery.com.Jordan’s vast estate is beautiful year-round, but in wintertime, it’s a cozy place to hole up for a tasting with food pairing in the winery’s private library. It’s a by-appointment, seated experience that highlights Jordan Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon and the talents of in-house executive chef Todd Knoll. Lasting one hour, tastings are available Monday through Sunday at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. ($30).
Kamen Estate Wines, 111B E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-938-7292, kamenwines.com.In downtown Sonoma, Kamen offers this light, bright tasting room, the perfect spot to pop in for a flight of its estate-grown wines. With an emphasis on mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, a tasting of three wines ranges from $20 to $35. Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Franc also figure into the mix. For a more rugged experience, book a vineyard tour and tasting for $80 and spend two hours in the hills above town.
Kokomo Winery, 4791 Dry Creek Road at Timber Crest Farms, Healdsburg, 707-433-0200,kokomowines.com.A producer of small-lot wines, Kokomo is open daily for $10 tastings of its wide range of red wines, including Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. For seekers of white wines, it also produces Chardonnay, Muscat Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, in addition to a late-harvest Muscat Blanc. Many of its fans, however, come for the crisp Grenache rosé.
La Crema Winery, 235 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 800-314-1762, lacrema.com.In an intimate tasting room in downtown Healdsburg, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist La Crema offers a selection of tasting experiences, from its signature tasting ($10), to a Pinot Noir Appellation Tasting ($15) and Lounge Exclusive Tasting ($20), none of which require advance reservation. For a more indepth tasting, try the Nine BarrelRoom Experience ($30), a look at the producer’s highest-end wines, or pair wines with cheese ($35); either way, it’s best to reserve ahead.
MacLaren Wine Co., 27 E. Napa St., Suite E, Sonoma, 707-938-7490, maclarenwine.com.A tiny, one-man operation, MacLaren produces a crisp, delightfully complex Sauvignon Blanc called Lee’s (named after winemaker Steve Law’s mom) and a slew of heady, cool-climate-inspired Syrahs from throughout the county. The tasting lounge on Vine Alley is relaxed and intimate, with Law usually on hand to pour the wines. It’s open Monday and Thursday, noon to 5 p.m.; Friday through Sunday, noon to 6 p.m.; and Tuesday and Wednesday,by appointment.
MacRostie Winery and Vineyards, 4605 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 707-473-9303, macrostiewinery.com.New to Westside Road, the MacRostie Estate House is an elegant place to enjoy elegant wines, including single-vineyard designated Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, most from Russian River Valley and with a few options from Carneros and the Sonoma Coast. Daily tastings are available on three patios and indoors, from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., with reservations recommended ($15-$25).
At Martinelli Winery in Windsor, an old hop barn has been turned into a warmly welcoming tasting room. (Photo courtesy of Martinelli Winery)
Martinelli Winery, 3360 River Road, Windsor, 800-346-1627, martinelliwinery. com.Once the site of an apple stand, Martinelli is still a place to procure divine Russian River Valleygrown apples, but more importantly, to taste and buy stellar Chardonnays,Pinot Noirs and Zinfandels. Stop in and you’re likely to run into a Martinelli family member. This multigenerational operation offers private tastings and tours, plus more casual tastes in an old, red hop barn that now serves as the tasting room.
Pangloss Cellars, 35 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-933-8565, panglosscellars.com.Newly opened in a carefully restored 113-year-old building, Pangloss is a sister label to Repris, a winery within the Moon Mountain District. Erich Bradley of Sojourn Cellars makes the wines. The lounge features several tasting experiences, from a communal banquet seating area to a more relaxed space around the fireplace. The wines range from Anderson Valley Pinot Noir to Hamel Vineyard Zinfandel.
Paradise Ridge Winery, 4545 Thomas Lake Harris Drive, Santa Rosa, 707528-9463,prwinery.com.Tucked away in the wilds of Fountaingrove, Paradise Ridge offers a range of wines to enjoy along with unparalleled views across the greater Santa Rosa Plain and beyond. There’s also an impressive outdoor sculpture garden, Marijke’s Grove. A wine and artisan cheese tasting ($25) is recommended, as is picnicking on the grounds, allowed with the purchase of a bottle of wine for every two people.
Passaggio Wines, 25 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-934-8941, passaggiowines.com.Owned and operated by winemaker Cindy Cosco, Passaggio aims to make food-friendly wines inspired by her Italian heritage. Amongthe offerings are Pinot Grigio, unoaked Chardonnay, several Sauvignon Blancs, blends and a couple of interesting rosés, made from Barbera and Mourvedre. The signature red wine is Unmarked Repeat Offender Sangiovese, a nod to Cosco’s former life in law enforcement.
Patz & Hall, 21200 Eighth St. E., Sonoma, 707-265-7700, patzhall.com.The Sonoma House at Patz & Hall is an expansive home fashioned specifically for intimate tastings. The Salon Experience, for example, is a seated, by-appointment taste through six vineyard-designated Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs paired with locally sourced bites. Lasting about an hour, it is $60 per person, with a 10-person limit. The more casual Tasting Bar is set up for shorter explorations of the wines Thursday through Monday, at the top of each hour, 10 a.m. through 4 p.m. — also by reservation.
Pellegrini Wine Co., 4055 W. Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, 707-545-8680, pellegrinisonoma.com.A longtime, multigenerational-owned vineyard and winery in the heart of Russian River Valley, Pellegrini offers an outdoor tasting bar and farm-to-table garden, surrounded by beautiful, vineyards. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are specialties, produced from estate- grown grapes. Tastings and tours are by appointment Monday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Quivira Vineyards, 4900 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, 707-431-8333, quivirawine.com. A wonderland of natural beauty in all seasons, Quivira is always alive, open for tours ($20) of its Zinfandel vineyards, beehives and biodynamic gardens, where chickens roam free. Be sure to try the winery’s sumptuous Sauvignon Blanc, balanced Zinfandels and hard-to-find Grenache.
Ravenswood Winery, 18701 Gehricke Road, Sonoma, 707-938-7292, ravenswoodwinery.com. Before there was a pursuit of balance, there was Ravenswood’s rallying cry of “No Wimpy Wines,” a philosophy it continues to hold to this day. The Zinfandel specialist offers daily tastings of its newest releases, as well as more specialized looks at rare, small-lot Zinfandel ($18) and Cabernet blends ($18). Add an artisan cheese or charcuterie plate for $17 each. A more-hands on approach is available via the Blend Your Own No Wimpy Wine experience. At $65, it’s an opportunity to create one’s own field-blend wine and take it home in a 375-ml bottle.
Roche Estate Winery, 122 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-935-7115, rochewinery.com. A longstanding, family-run winery, Roche runs this tasting room from a Craftsman-style house built in the 1940s and surrounded by outdoor seating. Its snack-plate menu made by the neighboring Sunflower Caffé complements the cool-climate Carneros wines, from Chardonnay to Merlot. The winery also invites visitors to picnic on its grounds, allowing them to bring their own lunch.
Rodney Strong Vineyards, 11455 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, 800-678-4763, rodneystrong.com.
One of the county’s most diverse and sustainably minded producers, Rodney Strong makes a long list of wines, from Bordeaux varietals to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Zinfandel. The best way to get a snapshot of the winemakers’ skills is through the Food & Wine Pairing Experience ($55), a serving of five bites created by the estate’s chef that is thoughtfully paired with five wines. Reservations recommended.
Schug Carneros Estate Winery, 602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707-939-9363, ext. 202, schugwinery.com.
The legendary Walter Schug, who died late last year at age 80, was heavily involved in the creation of Joseph Phelps Winery’s Insignia Bordeauxstyle red blend, as well as many of the producer’s other wines, before opening this family outpost where he could focus on Pinot Noir. His children continue to support the dream, offering self-guided tours of the estate vineyard and daily tastings of its finely made wines, which also include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and a lateharvest Riesling, among others.
Scribe Winery, 2100 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707-939-1858, scribewinery.com. The brothers Mariani preside over a wide range of casually cultivated events at their outpost on the hill, where unusual wines such as Sylvaner, Riesling and skin-fermented Chardonnay rule. They also make an estate Carneros Pinot Noir and a Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard they farm on the eastern slopes of Atlas Peak in Napa Valley. Reservations are required.
Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery, 389 Fourth St. E., Sonoma, 707-933-3230, sebastiani.com. This historic winery maintains a sprawling tasting room and visitor center that’s popular with crowds, and where antique redwood tanks surround a lively tasting bar. Daily tours are offered at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. ($5), while more in-depth offerings include a Historical Vines and Wines Tour, with much of the time spent in the vineyard (daily at 11 a.m., $45). A Wine and Chocolate tasting is conducted daily, between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. The cost is $10 to $20, depending on the level of wines chosen. Wine and cheese seminars are also available.
Seghesio family Vineyards in Healdsburg offers thoughtfully crafted food-and-wine pairings. (Photo courtesy Seghesio Family Vineyards)
Seghesio Family Vineyards, 700 Grove St., Healdsburg, 707-433-3579, seghesi o.com. Within strolling distance from the plaza, Seghesio is open daily for walk-in tastings. When time allows, enjoy the Founder’s Flight ($30), available on weekends by appointment. It’s a seated tasting of several wines, accompanied by artisan cheeses and house-cured salumi. On weekends through November, the Family Table ($75) is not to be missed. A brief tour and sampling of salumi is followed by a private, seated, multicourse lunch with exclusive, hard-tofind wines.
Sojourn Cellars, 141 E. Napa St., Sonoma, 707-938-7212, sojourncellars.com. By reservation only, Sojourn offers a sit-down educational tasting of its stellar wines, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon — wines difficult to come by unless you’re lucky enough to be on the mailing list. Erich Bradley is both a partner and the winemaker, working with such vineyards as Durell, Campbell Ranch, Silver Eagle and Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III.
Eye Candy Chocolatiers: Chocolate is Dr. Sonja Schluter’s happy place. The Sonoma ophthalmologist spends her days working with patients facing serious vision problems, primarily glaucoma. So her off-time passion for making beautiful chocolate truffles has become an outlet of beauty, precision and, of course, deliciousness.
But after 20 years practice (and giving most of her chocolate creations to friends), she’s finally opened a tiny retail shop at Sebastopol’s Gravenstein Station called Eye Candy.
Jewel-like truffles of every size and shape line the case, with flavors like passionfruit, guava, Earl Grey tea, chai coconut and cinnamon cardamom, making decisions difficult. What we love is the bitterness balancing act. Schulter uses a chocolate that’s between 54-64 percent cacao (milk chocolate has as little as 10% and extra-dark is around 80%), easing up on some of the intense bitterness of other dark chocolates.
Each of the truffles is made in the shop, with a mix of precision and creativity. “It fits my personality,” said Schluter, who has culinary training from the Ecole Chocolat in Vancouver and Callebaut Academy in Chicago. Crediting her mom, Tamara Suslov, M.D. (who founded the Eye Center in Sebastopol) for her tenacity and inspiration, Sonja brings her two worlds of chocolate and ophthamology together by donating a portion of her candy proceeds to the Glaucoma Research Foundation.
“Its a beautiful balancing act,” she said.
6761 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol. Open Monday through Saturday from 11a.m. to 4p.m.
Two Sonoma County men were among semifinalists announced Wednesday for the James Beard Foundation’s 2016 restaurant and chef awards. Russian River Brewing Co.’s Vinnie Cilurzo of Santa Rosa and Littorai Wines’ Ted Lemon of Sebastopol were among the 20 making the cut for Outstanding Wine, Spirits or Beer Professional.
About two dozen Bay Area restaurants and chefs were among the restaurant and chef semifinalists, with seven from the North Bay.
The final nominees in the 21 award categories for restaurants and chefs, as well as the nominations for Book, Journalism, Broadcast Media and Restaurant Design awards, will be announced March 14 in San Francisco.
Christopher Kostow, executive chef of The Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, was named a semifinalist for Outstanding Chef, given to working chefs in America whose career has set a national industry standard.
Once again, Napa Valley and Monterey chef Cindy Pawlcyn was named a semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurateur, given to working restaurateurs who set high national standards in operations and entrepreneurship.
Press in St. Helena, owned by Leslie Rudd, was a semifinalist for Outstanding Wine Program.
Along with Cilurzo and Lemon, Miljenko Grigich of Grgich Hills Estate in Rutherford and Steve Matthiasson of Matthiasson Wines in Napa were named semifinalists for Outstanding Wine, Spirits for Beer Professional.
Three San Francisco eateries were semifinalists for Outstanding Restaurant: Acquarello, Foreign Cinema and Restaurant Gary Danko. San Francisco restaurauteur Michael Mina was a semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurateur.
For Best Chef: West, seven Bay Area chefs were named as semifinalists: Matthew Accarrino of SPQR, Dominique Creen of Atelier Creen, Mourad Lahlou of Mourad, Corey Lee of Benu, Melissa Perello of Octavia and Joshua Skenes of Saison, all of San Francisco. James Syhabout of Commis in Oakland also was a semifinalist.
The James Beard Awards Gala will take place May 2 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago, when the restaurant, chef and restaurant design awards will be announced. The James Beard Foundation Book, Broadcast and Journalism awards will be announced from New York City on April 26.
For a complete list of semifinalists, go to jamesbeard.org/awards.
After six years of trial and error, the more than 100 regional restaurants participating in this year’s Sonoma County Restaurant Week(March 7-13, 2016) have dialed it in with great meals at great prices for 2016.
I’m more impressed with the lineup this year than I’ve ever been before, perhaps because restaurateurs have discovered that the event can be a huge economic boon during the quiet winter season. Now that the economy has turned around, locals are getting into the groove of the annual event, which also helps considerably.
If this is your first rodeo, here’s the deal: Participating restaurants offer prix fixe menus throughout the week with prices of $10 and $15 for lunch; $19, $29 and $39 for dinner. It’s a great way to try out a new spot or get a great deal at a favorite restaurant, and the range of prices means there’s something for every pocketbook. A dietary note: Most of the menus include vegetarian options, but if you have specific dietary needs, it’s a good idea to contact the restaurant in advance.
After perusing the menus posted at the Sonoma County Restaurant Week website, we’ve pulled out some of the best bets in terms of overall value, menu and our own experiences at the restaurants during the other 51 weeks of the year.
The $15 lunches and $29 dinners seem to be the sweet spot for the most choices, though the $39 dinners are a steal at some of Sonoma County’s swankier eateries.
This list doesn’t include everyone, so if you don’t see a fave, the restaurant may now have posted a menu, or the cost-to-deliciousness ratio just didn’t rank high on our radar. Since we haven’t tasted each menu, we can’t promise these will all be winners, but it’s certainly a solid place to start. Also, make sure to check out the Sonoma County Restaurant Week website to find hours, since some restaurants are closed Monday and Tuesday.
BITECLUB BEST BETS FOR RESTAURANT WEEK 2016
$10 Lunch Best Bet, Pongo’s Kitchen and Tap: Crispy rolls with sweet sour plum sauce; coconut filled with red curry, lobster, prawn, calamari, scallops and mussels served with steamed jasmine rice; ice cream sampler. 701 Sonoma Mt. Parkway, Suite C8, Petaluma.
$15 Lunch Best Bet, Backyard: Wild mushroom soup with creme fraiche and salsa verde; buttermilk fried chicken sandwich (or bacon, lettuce and kimchi sando); candy cap mushroom ice cream. 6566 Front St., Forestville.
More $15 Lunch Picks Franchetti’s Woodfire Kitchen: Truffle burrata on ricotta polenta with sautéed tomatoes, braised water buffalo with fingerling potatoes, homemade jelly doughnut or pie of the day. 1229 N. Dutton Ave., Santa Rosa
La Rosa Tequileria: Octopus tostada, carnitas torta, Mexican chocolate mousse. 500 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.
Canneti Roadhouse: Pork shoulder with baked beans and herbs, crispy chicken over fava pesto with pasta and Pecorino cheese. 6675 Front St., Forestville.
Sazon: Peruvian empanadas, Adobo (braised pork) sandwich with fried sweet potatoes. 1129 Sebastopol Rd., Santa Rosa.
$19 Dinner Best Bet, Barley and Hops: Seared scallops with basil and lavender vinaigrette, herb and almond crusted hangar steak with Brown Nectar Ale sauce, sea salted chocolate eclair. 3688 Bohemian Hwy, Occidental.
More $19 Dinner Picks La Vera Pizza: Carrot, coconut, curry, cilantro bisque; sweet potato gnocchi with gorgonzola sauce or red potato pizza, sea salt caramel hazelnut cannoli. 629 Fourth St., Santa Rosa.
Bear Republic: Minestrone soup, bite-sized sliders (Jamaican jerk, bbq pulled pork, black and blue burger) or Brewers’ mac and cheese, Beer-a-misu. Same menu for lunch. 345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg.
Hopmonk: Sausage board, meatloaf with mashed potatoes, three chocolate tart with strawberries and whipped cream. 691 Broadway, Sonoma.
Union Hotel: Caesar salad, chicken mushroom marsala or homemade ravioli, chocolate mousse cannoli. 280 Mission Blvd., Santa Rosa.
Taverna Sofia: Dolmas with tzatziki, moussaka, baklava. Open Thursday through Sunday. 244 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg.
Petaluma Pie Co.: Dinner for two includes 2 veggie or meat pies, salads and a mini pie to share. 125 Petaluma Blvd. No, Petaluma.
Palms Grill: Caesar salad, filet mignon with mashed potatoes, lemon meringue pie. 18999 Sonoma Hwy., Sonoma.
City Limits Restaurant: Calamari with chipotle aioli, braised short ribs, J.M. Rosen Cheesecake. 5151 Montero Way, Petaluma.
$29 Dinner Best Bet, Earth’s Bounty Kitchen: Spice-crusted ahi tuna with lemon aioli; herb-marinated beef tenderloin; beignets with vanilla cream and chocolate sauce. 5755 Mountain Hawk, Way, Santa Rosa.
More $29 Picks Bistro 29: Roasted carrot and ginger soup with brown butter pears, Rosie chicken leg “au vin” with potato puree, apple gateau Breton tatin with salted caramel. 620 Fifth St., Santa Rosa.
Charlie’s at Windsor Golf Club: wild mushroom and chicken crepes, panko-crusted chicken filled with spinach and mozzarella with creamy tomato sauce, chocolate waffles with ice cream, maple peanut butter sauce and whipped cream. 1320 19th Hole Dr., Windsor.
Piacere: Barbecue oysters, soup, lobster ravioli with orange cream sauce, homemade tiramisu. 504 N. Cloverdale, Cloverdale.
Peter Lowell’s: Vegetarian option: roasted chicikories with live, caper and burrata, linguine with black pepper and Pecorino romano, vegan chocolate chip cookie sundae. (But the butterscotch budino with bourbon caramel and whipped cream is pretty amazing for a omnivorian splurge). 7385 Healdsburg Ave. #101, Sebastopol.
Cafe Lucia: Tasca tasting appetizer, slow braised beef shortribs, salted chocolate tart with caramelized banana. 235 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg.
Willow Wood Market Cafe: Asparagus soup or baked goat cheese, Italian meatballs with polenta, lava cake. 9020 Graton Road, Graton.
$39 Dinner Best Bets, Valette: French onion soup with 64-degree egg and prosciutto; honey brined pork chop with brown butter parsnip mousseline; chocolate mousse with sea salt. Dinner starts at 5:30p.m. 344 Center St., Healdsburg.
Cocktail-whisperer Scott Beattie has created a drink menu for Ramen Gaijin inspired by his passion for Japan and, well, booze.
Tea-infused whiskeys, along with cocktails that showcase pickled plums and even mushrooms are beyond incredible. Also look for shrub cocktails with seasonal fruit from Bar Manager Gillian Tyrnauaer.
We’re a little bit in love, and a whole lot ready for happy hour.
Redwood Valley: Celebrate Earth Day during the three-day Anthropocene Show at the Redwood Valley Grange, 8650 East Road. Two inspiring films about veterans becoming farmers will be shown at 6:30 p.m. and 9 p.m. Friday, “Ground Operations” and “Terra Firma.” Enjoy Home Grown Music 6-9 p.m. Saturday, and brings seeds and starts to exchange noon-3 p.m. Sunday. More info: artisall@earthlink.net.
EARTH DAY, APRIL 23
Kenwood: Sugar Loaf Ridge State Park has several Earth Day events scheduled Saturday at 2605 Adobe Canyon Road. Join David Chalk for the first annual Hike Around the Park 9 a.m.-5 p.m. starting at the White Barn. The 13-mile hike has a 3,000-foot elevation. $20 at brownpapertickets.com. Stay for the barbecue from 5-7 p.m., $25, brownpapertickets.com, or join naturalist Karen Sapper for a free sunset nature walk 7-8:15 p.m. along the Meadow-Hillside Loop to Camp Butler for the sunset.
Earth Day on Stage: Celebrate Earth Day in downtown Santa Rosa with a free family-friendly festival in Courthouse Square. From noon to 4 p.m., guests are invited to walk, bike or take the City Bus to the event to enjoy live performances and activities throughout the day. The event will include food and beverage to purchase, music, a kids’ eco-activity area and more. Find out more at srcity.org/earthday.
Earth Laugh: Comedy of Crushers presents a 21-plus event with Earth Day comedy performances at the Sonoma Valley Inn. This Saturday at 8 p.m., kick back for a good chuckle with comedians Zahra Noorbakhsh, Ronn Vigh and Natasha Muse. Admission is $25. Find out more at crushersofcomedy.com.
APRIL 24
Earth Day in Peacetown: Enjoy a wide schedule of free events at the Sebastopol Community Cultural Center in honor of Earth Day. From 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., events will include gardening activities, poetry readings, fairy house building, a dance party and more. Find out all the details at seb.org.
MINDFUL WALK, APRIL 28
Glen Ellen: Join registered yoga and Qigong teacher for a mindful walk 9-10:45 a.m. at Quarryhill Botanical Garden, 12841 Sonoma Hwy., the first of five Thursday walks. It begins with gentle yoga and Qigong warm-ups. The series payment of $75 is due at the first walk. For registration and information contact wejulie@wellnessencounters.com or call 228-5765.
RACE TICKETS, APRIL 27
Santa Rosa: Today is the deadline to purchase a $60 ticket to participate in the Hood Mountain Vertical Challenge race May 1 at Hood Mountain Regional Park. Runners will climb nearly 3,000 feet in 4.5 miles during the 9-mile race over steep and technical grades. The race kicks off the Scena Performances 2016 Vertical Challenge Series. Ticket price includes parking and post-race recovery food and drink. Race starts a 9 a.m., there is no time limit to finish and awards are given to the top three male and female finishers. Contact the Healdsburg Running Company at 395-0372 or healdsburgrunningcompany.com.
Send outdoor listings to gearhead@pressdemocrat.com at least two weeks in advance.
The accolades for Screamin’ Mimi’s in Sebastopol is no hype. Their “Deep Dark Secret” is out of the freezer and available every day as one of their best-selling mainstays, and locals describe the shop’s original flavors as “yummylicious.”
Screamin’ Mimi’s magnificence hasn’t escaped the nation’s attention, either. The Sebastopol ice cream parlor has been nominated for USA Today’s 10Best Contest in the Ice Cream Parlor category. This contest names the best of the best around the entire country. To spread the word about Screamin’ Mimi’s ice cream cheer and secure them in the 10Best, vote here. Voting ends May 23 at 9 a.m.
Located in the heart of Sebastopol, Screamin’ Mimi’s is a quirky quaint spot that often has a line out the door. It’s been a notable fixture of the town center for 21 years. With signature flavors like Peanut Butter Galaxy and Java Galaxy, their tasty treats are out of this world.
Priced by weight, the scoops are custom served to meet any appetite. Local fresh seasonal ingredients are the highlight at this exceptional ice parlor.
An interesting thing has been happening these past few months when I mention Sebastopol. Faces light up, and people say, “Oh, Ramen Gaijin! I love that place.”
There’s so much to love about the small town already, but this restaurant seems to be putting emoji hearts in everyone’s eyes. More friends suddenly find it convenient to visit me — I live about five minutes from the Japanese izakaya — and I’ve been drawn into conversations about noodles and pickles with perfect strangers.
The food is great, and part of the joy comes from cheering for the little guy. The eatery began life in July 2014, as a once-a-month pop-up inside Woodfour Brewing Company at The Barlow. On the first evening of business, first-time restaurateurs Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Schuman sold 120 bowls before running out of soup.
The Pickle Plate, Yakitori (from top; Chicken Tsukune, Hokkaido Scallop, Broccoli, and Wagyu Short Rib) and Maguro Poke from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.
Success, indeed — five months later, the shop relocated to a larger space inside Forchetta/Bastoni restaurant just across the street, and then, exactly one year later, the Japanese eatery took over the entire two-story building.
It was all roses, except Forchetta/Bastoni’s closure included some state problems, including their hard alcohol license being suspended. Williams and Hahn-Schuman considered relocating, and even after they got the license settled, they faced extensive renovations to the former Asian/Italian space.
The open kitchen at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.
This past December, Ramen Gaijin closed, finally reopening in March with a new look including concrete and undulating redwood bars backed by reclaimed barn-wood paneling, Japanese hanging lanterns, izakaya pub interior signage, old school Japanese paintings updated with modern day superheroes, and a cute, tiny Godzilla bonsai garden on the eat-in counter overlooking the new kitchen.
It was worth the wait. While Japanese food is all the Wine Country rage these days— think the new Miminashi in Napa, Persimmon in Healdsburg, the soon-to-open Two Birds One Stone in St. Helena and the up-coming Single Threat in Healdsburg — Ramen Gaijin shines among the best dining I’ve enjoyed anywhere.
Attention to detail is brilliant, with a simple donburi bowl ($13) boasting authentic Japanese Kewpie mayo, a rice vinegar-based sauce that’s richer and creamier than standard USA issue. Here, it’s infused with yuzu before being dolloped on a bed of rice topped in pork belly, farm egg, tobiko, kimchee, bonito, pickled red onion, Bull-Dog tonkatsu sauce and goma furika seasoning of toasted sesame seeds, chopped seaweed, sugar and salt.
Ashimagari, Kyuri Bay and Blade gin with lemon, apricot, thyme and lemon from the bar at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.
The effort is all the more impressive considering the duo had been cooking for their entire professional lives, but really didn’t know the first thing about specialties like the skinny noodles called chūka soba. The word gaijin, notably, is the Japanese term for a non-Japanese person, and it took the chefs nine months to figure the perfect ramen recipe, based on handcrafted rye noodles that are toasted for even more aroma and a firmer chew. They tested many miso recipes using a variety of sprouted grains and legumes, and pickled everything they could get their hands on.
Years of living in Japan made me a ramen fanatic, and this team has nailed it. Tender noodles have the perfect, slightly rubber band texture, and the shoyu broth is deep, savory and just-right salty with notes of kombu, garlic and ginger amid the silky emulsified fats from whole chicken, pork neck and smoked hocks.
Maguro poke with ahi, hijack, avocado, puffed brown rice and chili vinegar from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.
Shoyu ramen ($15) showcases the commitment to pristine ingredients, stocking that elegant broth-noodle bowl with slippery curls of wakame (soft seaweed), big flaps of meaty wood ear mushroom, shaved leek, tender menma bits (fermented bamboo), a halved six-minute egg cooked to perfect runny custard yolk, and a rich crown of pork belly chashu that’s the best bacon in the universe for its slow roasted browned texture and rich but clean tasting marbling. It pains me to write about the soup now, with no leftovers to eat.
A shiitake miso vegetarian broth version ($15) is nearly as flavorful, boasting fried tofu, bok choy, woodear mushroom, wakame, scallion, and crunchy togarashi roasted carrots. My companion doesn’t care for egg, but I adore it, so the kitchen politely placed her serving in a prettily little pottery side dish for me.
Still, my favorite is the spicy tan tan ramen ($15), with the rust-red broth packing wonderful heat that sneaks up slowly. Delicious fat tempers the burn, delivered via thick slabs of slow roasted pork belly chashu, crumbled spicy ground pork and egg. Plus, as a special one day, the chefs had rolled more chashu, then sliced it nearly as thin as carpaccio ($3 add-in), bringing even more pork flavor against charred cabbage, woodear mushrooms, mustard greens, sesame and scallion.
Amara Yeats, 5, enjoys a bowl of noodles using kids chopsticks at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.
The perfect meal also includes a crisp salad to refresh the palate. Daikon no sunomono ($8) is a delicate toss of amethyst and white daikon curls, julienne Nantes carrot, shiso, and whisper light curls of katsuobushi (dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna). The idea is to get a bit of each ingredient in your chopsticks, and stir to the bottom of the bowl for a sop in sanbaizu, a brisk, sweet vinegar dressing.
Each vegetable on the pickle plate ($7), meanwhile, has bathed in an individual brine, delivering highly spicy turnip, sweet-tart white strawberries, tangy shiitakes, fiery kimchee, ginger, fennel, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber and watermelon radish. Contrasting flavors, colors and textures are marvelous.
The chefs offer artistry extends to maguro poke ($14), with tiny cubes of line caught ahi arranged in multiple small mounds on a rectangular pottery plate, scattered with crispy puffed brown rice, and topped in frilly mustard greens. Here and there are large and small spoonfuls of avocado cream, and tiny bits of hijiki (black seaweed). As our server checks back often to make sure we’re happy, our smiles say it all.
Black sesame ice cream with matcha meringue, miso caramel and coconut granola from Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.
At night, Ramen Gaijin expands with a longer izakaya menu, though keep the mood distinct, the full izakaya menu is not available on the main dining room side, and ramen isn’t served in the izakaya bar.
It’s delightful to nestle at the bar, eating chile vinegar dipped pork shoulder-scallion gyoza ($10) and kaarage (juicy fried chicken thigh nubbins, $8), while sipping sakes, beers and wines on tap, or seasonal artisan cocktails created by celebrity mixologist Scott Beattie.
A Root Down marries Blade Gin with homemade Nantes carrot shrub, lemon, pickled root vegetables and coriander ($11) for a crisp, layered quaff, while Japanese highballs are made with kashi Whisky infused with Samovar Japanese teas like Sencha green tea plus a bit of seltzer ($13); even the ice is art, crystal clear and hand-cut into spears.
The bar at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol serves a selection of Japanese tea high balls along with traditional favorites.
Yakitori is elevated beyond pub food, as well. Besides the traditional robata grilled chicken thigh marinated in Sonoma County-crafted Bachan’s teriyaki sauce ($4), there is the Wagyu-style short rib topped in Meyer kosho, a citrusy Japanese hot sauce ($8), and succulent Hokkaido scallop kissed with barrel aged sake and chives ($6).
Japanese dessert aren’t often stars, except here, the chefs think through each ingredient, resulting in intriguing flavors like black sesame ice cream, the charcoal gray creamy mixture set atop coconut granola with a puddle of miso caramel and little puffs of matcha meringue ($7). It’s a big, earthy mix, and begs for a cocktail alongside. Perhaps the Ashimagari ($11), a pale purple quaff of Torikai shochu, shiso plum liqueur and a delicate lily pad of purple nori.
The open kitchen design allows eating at the bar while watching the action at the Yakitori grill at Ramen Gaijin in Sebastopol.
Carey Sweet is a Santa Rosa-based food and restaurant writer. Read her restaurant reviews every other week in Sonoma Life. Contact her at carey@careysweet.com.
Sebastopol’s century-old Analy high school was gussied up Friday with fresh paint and landscaping for a starring role in a Netflix series, “13 Reasons Why,” based on a best-selling young adult novel about teenage bullying.
Netflix is adapting best-selling young adult novel into a miniseries. Selena Gomez will be one of the series’ executive producers. (Variety.com)
The 13-episode series — directed by Tom McCarthy, fresh off his best picture Academy Award for “Spotlight,” co-produced by Disney star Selena Gomez and backed by Paramount Television — has plenty of Hollywood power behind it.
But Analy, No. 1,900 and a silver medal winner in U.S. News & World Report’s 2016 Best High Schools rankings, will be discernible only to those who know it well.
The signs over Analy’s front door and library door now read “Liberty High School,” and the 14-page contract between Paramount and the West Sonoma County High School District stipulates the television company shall not use the school name “in any manner whatsoever in connection with its use or exhibition of the photographic product.”
The Analy High School sign on the library is temporarily changed to Liberty High School for the filming of the Netflix series “13 Reasons Why” in Sebastopol, California on Friday, June 17, 2016. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Paramount is paying the district $60,000 for up to 30 days of filming at Analy through Nov. 23, with an allowance for additional days for a fee of $2,500 a day. Once classes resume, the company is assured of access to the campus only from 4 p.m. to 5 a.m. on weekdays and all day on Sundays.
On Friday, a large klieg light illuminated the school’s front door, but all the filming was going on inside the building, closed to the public. Robert Scott, a production manager, told a reporter and photographer it was a “closed set.”
Two yellow school buses, with no school identification on them, were parked in front of Analy/Liberty High, along with a dark brown coffee truck summoned from San Francisco to serve the crew.
“We’re excited they’re here,” said Jennie Bruneman, the district’s director of facilities, maintenance and operation. “They’ve been really good to the campus.”
The filmmakers painted the vertical columns on the school’s facade light green, placed fresh brown bark mulch over some landscaping and planted 10 bushes in front of the 108-year-old school, with more plantings in the interior quad.
“We can’t afford landscaping,” Bruneman said, noting that Analy Tiger boosters had wanted to make those improvements for years. Proceeds from the filming will go to improvements at the Analy campus, the district said.
The first round of filming wrapped up Friday, but the Liberty High signs will remain in place at least through July, when the crew is expected to return.
Book cover of ‘Thirteen Reasons Why’ by Jay Asher. (bashclub.com)
“It’s great that they selected a small community and we get to be involved,” Bruneman said.
Sonoma County has a storied history of cinematography dating as far back as 1914, including scenes at both Santa Rosa and Rohnert Park’s Rancho Cotate high schools. In 1996, the Santa Rosa school board refused to let director Wes Craven film part of “Scream” at the high school, but he used alternate locations in town and scored a hit with the gory teen slasher flick.
“13 Reasons Why” is based on an adaptation — by Pulitzer Prize-winning lyricist Brian Yorkey — of the New York Times bestselling novel by Jay Asher, published in 2007 and printed in 35 languages, according to Variety. The story revolves around a shoebox of cassette tapes from a girl named Hannah Baker who explains to 13 people how they each played a role in driving her to suicide.
In a January interview with TeenVogue, Selena Gomez, a 23-year-old singer and actress, said her mother, Mandy Teefey, was struck by Asher’s book.
“Four or five years ago, she found this book and fell in love with it,” Gomez said. “I think I was still in high school. Now we’re here. We took our time with it.”
Analy’s previous appearance on the silver screen in the 1999 comedy-drama “Mumford,” featuring Ted Danson and Jason Lee and costing $28 million, got lukewarm critical reviews and was a financial flop, earning only $4.6 million in the United States.
Here’s a selection of 38 list-worthy restaurants — secluded shaded patios, prime sidewalk people-watching cafes and comfy sun-dappled gardens — to expand your summertime open air options.
SANTA ROSA
Belly Left Coast Kitchen and Taproom
This 4th street restaurant is run by rock star chef Gray Rollin, who previously prepared meals for musicians like Motley Crue, KISS, Black Eyed Peas, Sarah McLachlan, Katy Perry, Blink 182, Godsmack, and Tori Amos. Rollin now serves up West Coast sourced New American eats, wines and brews in “rustic-cool digs” which open to an outdoor patio. 523 4th St, Santa Rosa, CA 95401.
Belly Left Coast Kitchen & Taproom in downtown Santa Rosa has a rock star chef, and a street-side patio perfect for people-watching while sipping on a craft beer. (Courtesy photo)
Bird & The Bottle
Mark and Terri Stark’s newest Sonoma County restaurant celebrates “the American melting pot” by preparing innovative interpretations of international street food. Diners at the restaurant can enjoy flavors from Asia, the American South, the East Coast, Jewish comfort food favorites, a wide variety of fresh seafood, wines, craft beers and signature cocktails on an expansive deck. 1055 4th St, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Bird and the Bottle in Santa Rosa prepares innovative interpretations of international street food, and has an expansive outdoor deck. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Brew Coffee & Beer
This charming neighborhood hangout, founded and run by Alisse Cottle and Jessica Barroyo, is all about craft: craft coffee, craft beer… Brew also features cozy couches, locally sourced artisan eats and incredible pastries from Criminal Baking Co., Village Bakery, and Grateful Bagel. Enjoy a morning sunshine mocha with a pastry while perusing a good book, a newspaper or a magazine on the patio. 555 Healdsburg Ave. Santa Rosa, CA 95401.
Enjoy a morning sunshine pour-over, or an afternoon pint, on the Brew patio in downtown Santa Rosa. (Heather Irwin / The Press Democrat)
East West Cafe Santa Rosa
This Mediterranean restaurant’s front patio, next to Summerfield arthouse cinema, is a great spot to assuage your movie munchies or to get a pre or post movie bite to eat. The menu, developed by brothers Nawar and Maen Laham, includes a large variety of tasteful, fresh and local ingredients embracing vegan and vegetarian options. 557 Summerfield Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95405.
The East West Cafe, next to Summerfield arthouse cinema, is a great spot to satisfy your movie munchies. (afar.com)
Legends at Bennett Valley
This sports bar and grill is perfectly located for 19th hole golf grub. Overlooking the Bennett Valley Golf Course, Legends serves sumptuous meals prepared by Executive Chef Cesar Orozco. Throughout the summer, guests can enjoy live music on the patio — Fridays, from 5.30 to 8:30 p.m. 3328 Yulupa Ave, Santa Rosa, CA 95405.
Legends at Bennett Valley is perfectly located for some post golf grub. (Courtesy photo)
Monti’s Rotisserie and Bar
Monti’s rustic Mediterranean ambiance welcomes diners with a variety of plates featuring local meats and seasonal produce enjoyed on the patio. Then walk off your meal, shopping in open air Montgomery Village’s plethora of boutiques. 714 Village Ct, Santa Rosa, CA 95405.
Monti’s rustic Mediterranean ambiance welcomes diners with a variety of plates featuring local meats and seasonal produce. (Courtesy photo)
Russian River Brewing Company
Russian River Brewing Company (RRBC) is the brewpub behind two of Sonoma County’s most widely known celebrities: Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger. When Pliny Jr makes his annual debut, beer enthusiasts flock from all corners of the world to line up around the block for a ration of the IPA. This hipster saturated 4th street watering hole is the perfect locale for sipping a cool one and enjoying some pub grub in the summer sun. 725 4th St, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Beer enthusiasts from around the world line up for the annual debut of Russian River Brewing Company’s Pliny the Younger. This 4th street watering hole is the perfect locale for sipping a cool one in the summer sun. (Courtesy photo)
SEA Thai Bistro
This award winning Montgomery Village restaurant, run by Executive Chef Tony Ounpamornchai, serves up artistically crafted and delicious plates. Ounpamornchai combines classic training and umami flavors to create a locally focused and seasonally sourced menu that blends the best of South East Asia (SEA) and modern America. 2350 Midway Dr, Santa Rosa, CA 95405
This award winning SEA Thai Bistro serves up artistically crafted and delicious plates which can be enjoyed on a patio. (Courtesy photo)
Sweet T’s Restaurant & Bar
This upscale — yet casual — eatery features Southern classics: slow-cooked BBQ, dry rubbed ribs, fried chicken, gumbo, shrimp n’ grits, and creamed corn. The outdoor patio is equipped with heaters for those chilly North Bay evenings. 2097 Stagecoach Rd #100, Santa Rosa, CA 95404
Southern classics spot Sweet T’s outdoor patio is equipped with heaters for chilly North Bay evenings. (Courtesy photo)
Willi’s Wine Bar
Willi’s Wine Bar’s classic roadhouse appeal captures the casual, laid-back nature of Sonoma County. The menu at Willi’s features international small plates — some wildly inventive and others comfortingly familiar — and the staff creates perfect pairings with wines from the extensive wine list. And you are welcome to treat your dog to some water table-side while you sip on a generous glass of merlot seated on the outdoor patio. 4404 Old Redwood Hwy, Santa Rosa, CA 95403.
Willi’s Wine Bar’s classic roadhouse appeal captures the casual, laid-back nature of Sonoma County. (yelp.com)
HEALDSBURG & DRY CREEK VALLEY
Barndiva
Heralded as “farm-to-fork modern country cuisine,” Barndiva, much more than a sustainable foodie mecca, is its own experiential “Barndiva Land” where you’re invited to “eat the view.” The patio’s crushed granite and the sycamore trees give the outdoor eating area a distinctly Parisian feel. Menu highlights include crispy duck leg confit with polenta, melted leeks, red wine cherries and caramelized endive, and oven roasted pork sirloin served with a spring vegetable cassoulet and pickled fennel salad. 231 Center St, Healdsburg, CA 95448.
The patio’s crushed granite and the sycamore trees give the outdoor eating area at Barndiva a distinctly Parisian feel. (Courtesy photo)
Bravas Bar de Tapas
Spanish and modern wine country tapas-style dining prepared by James Beard finalists Mark and Terri Stark. Dream of Madrid or Andalusia as you dine outdoors year-round enjoying large plates of paella together with friends, while sipping fine Spanish wines, sangrias and Iberian-style cocktails. 420 Center Street, Healdsburg, CA 95448
Dream of Madrid or Andalusia as you dine outdoors year-round at Bravas Bar de Tapas. (trover.com)
Campo Fina
Don’t be alarmed if this idyllic brick-clad Italian appears empty when you walk in on a sunny day — everyone is on the back patio sipping cocktails, playing bocce and watching the chefs turn out some of the best pizza in the county on an outdoor wood-fired oven. 330 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, CA 95448.
Enjoy a game of bocce between courses at Campo Fina in Healdsburg. (Erik Castro / The Press Democrat)
Healdsburg Bar & Grill
Healdsburg Bar & Grill (aka HBG) is a buzzing, casual American eatery where chef Douglas Keane elevates classic American dishes with a modern touch. HBG’s burger was recently voted one of Food and Wine Magazine’s 25 Best in the U.S., and can be enjoyed in “rustic, airy surrounds with outdoor seating.” 245 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, CA 95448.
Healdsburg Bar and Grill’s burger was recently voted one of Food and Wine Magazine’s 25 Best in the U.S. (Courtesy photo)
Rustic – Francis Favorites Restaurant at Francis Ford Coppola Winery
Recently voted one of the top 100 outdoor dining restaurants in the U.S. by Open Table, Rustic takes full advantage of its scenic Sonoma County setting — the outdoor terrace overlooks the picturesque Alexander Valley. The menu embraces family-style cooking that features fresh, seasonal ingredients sourced from the property’s organic herb and produce garden. 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, CA 95441.
Rustic takes full advantage of its scenic Sonoma County setting — the outdoor terrace overlooks the picturesque Alexander Valley. (winefoodexplorer.com)
Willi’s Seafood and Raw Bar
The East Coast and South America meet the Wine Country at this restaurant located just north of the town square in downtown Healdsburg. The menu, designed for sharing, includes items ranging from New England Style “Rolls” and Latin-inspired skewers to ceviches and tartares which can be enjoyed on the popular outdoor patio. The chef’s raw bar features an ever-changing selection of fresh seafood, including at least eight varieties of fresh oysters. 403 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, CA 95448
Willis Seafood and Raw Bar in Healdsburg is a popular al fresco spot. (Crista Jeremiason / The Press Democrat)
WINDSOR
Charlie’s Restaurant
A favorite among our readers, Charlie’s at Windsor Golf Club offers views of the course and lake, and features weekend brunch, great steaks, fresh seafood, fine wines and beers on tap. 1320 19th Hole Dr, Windsor, CA 95492
Charlie’s Restaurant offers views of Windsor Golf Club. (Courtesy Photo)
PETALUMA
Speakeasy
Speakeasy, an “international tapas bistro,” draws its inspiration from the unique history of downtown Petaluma’s turn of the century buildings and alleys. The restaurant encourages “the sharing of food and stories, lively conversation and neighborhood interaction.” After dining on the outdoor patio at the front of the restaurant, stroll over to sister joint “The Big Easy” for some live music and digestifs. 139 Petaluma Blvd N, Petaluma, CA 94952.
After dining on the outdoor patio at Speakeasy, stroll over to sister joint The Big Easy for some live music and digestifs. (Alvin Jornada / The Press Democrat)
Water Street Bistro
A touch of Paris in downtown Petaluma, Water Street Bistro boasts beautiful views of the Petaluma River coupled with fine French food prepared by Stephanie Rastetter. At this eclectic European style eatery you will find “liberal intellectuals, Midwestern sculptors and staunch conservative stockbrokers chatting over a crossword puzzle and a house-made scone.” 100 Petaluma Blvd N #106, Petaluma, CA 94952.
Juan Amat, left and Bernard Noz of Petaluma (originally from France) toast the French cuisine served at Water Street Bistro in Petaluma. Diners at the bistro can also enjoy the patio, overlooking the river. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
Wild Goat Bistro
Nestled in the historic Great Petaluma Mill, the Wild Goat Bistro features intimate dining tables, a reclaimed copper-top counter with a birds-eye view of the open kitchen and additional seating at a community farm table for larger groups. The menu is made up of “honest food” that uses local fresh and seasonal ingredients in a variety of culinary traditions: from specialty Neopolitan style pizzas to scrumptious main dishes and sharable small plates. Charming outdoor seating is available on the front porch. Great Petaluma Mill Shopping Center #A5, 6 Petaluma Blvd N, Petaluma, CA 94952.
European-style Wild Goat Bistro offers seating at a community farm table for larger groups, and dining on a charming patio. (heritagesalvage.com)
SEBASTOPOL
Hopmonk Tavern
The Sebastopol Hopmonk Tavern (the first Hopmonk in Sonoma County) is housed in a 1903 landmarked brick building previously used as railroad powerhouse. The outdoor beer garden has long communal tables and a fire-pit, and is host to live music on the weekends. Guests can peruse an extensive “Beer Bible” of distinguished brews from around the world, while chewing on a juicy burger and other classic pub grub. 230 Petaluma Ave, Sebastopol, CA 95472.
The outdoor beer garden at Hopmonk Tavern has long communal tables and a fire-pit, and is host to live music on the weekends. (shawnehalldesigns.com)
Ramen Gaijin
Ramen Gaijin offers a seasonal Japanese menu consisting of traditional regional ramen styles inspired by the offerings of local farmers and ranchers. The Sebastopol restaurant also offers an ever changing selection of yakitori and small plate izakaya dishes to complement craft cocktails, beer, wine and sake. Enjoy the convivial neighborhood atmosphere on the patio during the daily happy hour, 3:30-5:30pm. 6948 Sebastopol Ave, Sebastopol, CA 95472.
Enjoy the convivial neighborhood atmosphere on the Ramen Gaijin patio during the daily happy hour. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
Zazu Kitchen + Farm
Zazu is the quintessential farm to table establishment: menus are put together after a hunt through the gardens to see what is ripe and ready, produce is sourced from small local farms (including chefs-owners Duskie’s and John’s Forestville farm), and kitchen scraps are saved to feed the farm animals. With their no-fuss cooking style, Duskie and John have made a name for themselves locally and internationally by charismatically letting the ingredients speak for themselves. The outdoor patio is situated next to the restaurant garden and offers diners views of the bustling and eclectic Barlow community. 6770 McKinley St #150, Sebastopol, CA 95472
The outdoor patio at Zazu is situated next to the restaurant garden and offers diners views of the bustling and eclectic Barlow community. (Chris Hardy / The Press Democrat)
COTATI & ROHNERT PARK
Redwood Cafe
A longtime neighborhood favorite, the Redwood Cafe offers more than just good food and a congenial atmosphere. Keeping alive Cotati’s North Bay entertainment tradition, the cafe features a full schedule of live music and other artistic performances throughout the year: including Monday open mic nights, stand up comedy, belly dancing, Irish jam sessions, Celtic fiddle music and burlesque performances. The restaurant has two outdoor patios; one on the front and one to the side; the latter features a fire pit. 8240 Old Redwood Hwy, Cotati, CA 94931.
Redwood Cafe features a full schedule of live music and other artistic performances throughout the year. The restaurant has two outdoor patios; one on the front and one to the side, with a fire pit. (yelp.com)
Hana Japanese Restaurant
Considered by many to be one of the best Japanese restaurants in Sonoma County, even in the North Bay, Hana Japanese Restaurant is a hidden gem tucked away in northern Rohnert Park. Chef-Owner Ken Tominaga, who honed his culinary crafts in Tokyo, prepares sushi, sashimi and other traditional dishes, uses only the highest quality, freshest fish, and the best local produce. The restaurant has a sake sommelier to help diners navigate the extensive sake menu. The outdoor patio overlooks the Foxtail Golf Club. 101 Golf Course Drive, Rohnert Park, CA 94928.
Considered one of the best Japanese restaurants in in the North Bay, Hana Japanese Restaurant is a hidden gem tucked away in northern Rohnert Park. The restaurant has an outdoor patio, overlooking Foxtail Golf Club. (foodspotting.com)
SONOMA & GLEN ELLEN
Depot Hotel Restaurant & Garden
This Sonoma establishment, located in an 1870 train depot, also made the Open Table Top 100 list of outdoor dining restaurants in the U.S. Run by the Ghilarducci family for more than 30 years, the restaurant’s head chef, Antonio Ghilarducci (son of founder Michael Ghilarducci), continues the family tradition of serving casual Italian comfort food in the tradition of the Lucca province in Tuscany, from which the family originates. The stylish outdoor patio overlooks an ornamental reflection pool with a sparkling fountain. At the end of the garden is an outdoor fireplace, arbor, private bar and pergola surrounded by Tuscan-style stucco walls. 241 1st St W, Sonoma, CA 95476.
The Depot Hotel Restaurant in Sonoma made Open Table’s top 100 outdoor dining list. (Courtesy photo)
El Dorado Kitchen
El Dorado executive chef Armando Navarro’s farm driven cuisine is a collection of earthy yet sophisticated dishes that showcase the essence of seasonal and locally sourced produce. Navarro trained under some of the best chefs at Le Bernardin, Jean Georges and Daniel Boulud in New York, and has served as executive sous chef at Auberge du Soleil, chef du cuisine at Redd in Yountville and executive chef at Larkspur Restaurant in Vail, CO. Diners at this award winning Sonoma restaurant can take in the beauty of the picturesque town from an outdoor courtyard, while enjoying lunch or dinner in a private cabana under the fig trees. 405 1st St W, Sonoma, CA 95476
Diners at El Dorado Kitchen can take in the beauty of picturesque Sonoma from an outdoor courtyard while enjoying lunch or dinner in a private cabana under the fig trees. (Courtesy photo)
Glen Ellen Star
The fruition of a decade-long dream by Chef Ari Weiswasser and his wife Erinn Benziger-Weiswasser, Glen Ellen Star has the rustic feel of California wine country where diners are afforded a taste of both local and international flavors. Ari has worked at New York’s Restaurant Daniel, Picholine, and Paul Liebrandt’s Corton, where he served as Chef de Cuisine. He also had a long stint at The French Laundry in Yountville. Private parties flock to the patio, located just outside the kitchen window. 13648 Arnold Dr, Glen Ellen, CA 95442.
Private parties flock to the patio at Glen Ellen Star, located just outside the kitchen window. (Courtesy photo)
La Salette
Chef Manuel Azevedo honors his Portuguese heritage by preparing classic and innovative dishes in Portuguese style and and with respect for his Azores heritage. Dishes are perfectly cooked, many in the wood-burning oven. The wine list is loaded with Portuguese treasures and the service is snappy. It’s a real treat to dine here, especially on the front patio. 452 First St. E., Suite H, Sonoma.
It’s a real treat to dine in Portuguese style at La Salette, especially on the front patio. (Courtesy photo)
Sunflower Caffe
This charmingly cheerful cafe, located in historic landmark building #501, was once home to captain Salvador Vallejo, the brother of Sonoma’s founder Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo. The recipe for food here is simple; the ingredients real as in “real good”: the restaurant uses salt from the San Francisco Bay, milk from cows grazing in the Sonoma County pastures and eggs from a farm less than 5 miles away. Outdoor dining is available on the street side patio or in the shaded and lovely lush garden. 421 1st St W, Sonoma, CA 95476.
Outdoor dining is available at Sunflower Caffe, on the street side patio or in the shaded and lovely lush garden. (Courtesy photo)
The Girl & the Fig
Like a plump ripe fig, the food at the girl & the fig is fresh, healthy, and bursting with flavor. With a seasonal menu featuring garden vegetables, herbs, and an abundance of creativity, the rustic Provencal-inspired cuisine allows earth’s true and natural flavors to shine. The restaurant features an antique bar with French aperitifs, unique and traditional cocktails, an award-winning Rhone-Alone and outdoor garden patio seating. 110 W Spain St, Sonoma, CA 95476.
Enjoy the girl and the fig’s rustic Provencal-inspired cuisine on the patio. (polloplayer.com)
GUERNEVILLE & RUSSIAN RIVER RESORT AREA
Estero Cafe
Chef-Owner couple Samantha and Ryan Ramey draw upon the west county’s free-range egg farmers and artisan producers to elevate their hearty all-day, every-day breakfast dishes at this Valley Ford eatery. On many mornings, the cafe is filled with the same farmers they source from, who stop by to fuel up for the day. Wednesday night dinner is served weekly, but the spot is typically a breakfast, brunch and lunch spot. 14450 Highway 1, Valley Ford, CA 94972
Estero Cafe in Valley Ford is a hidden gem – with an outdoor patio. (Courtesy photo)
Gold Coast Coffee & Bakery
This cozy coffee shop is located in historic Duncan Mills, next to the General Store and The Depot Museum (Duncan Mills was once a stop on the Northwestern Pacific Railroad to Sausalito). Stop in for a cup of their finest house roasted coffee and pair it with a homemade pastry baked in the cafe’s wood fired oven (which also bakes great tasting pizza!). Enjoy breakfast and lunch on a well appointed deck surrounded by lush gardens. 23577 Steelhead Blvd, Duncans Mills, CA.
Enjoy a cup of Gold Coast’s finest house roasted coffee paired it with a homemade pastry on the well appointed deck. (Beth Schlanker / The Press Democrat)
Raymonds Bakery
Raymond’s Bakery in Cazadero is an oasis of wonderful fresh baked breads and treats. The bakery is run by husband and wife team Mark and Elizabeth Weiss (who also operate charming Elim Cottages B&B on the same premises). As you enter Raymond’s, the baking smells wafting in the air immediately make you feel as though you’ve been transported… back in time to your grandmother’s kitchen. Visitors to this Cazadero gem can enjoy wood-fire baked pizzas, beer and wine and live music in the garden, every Friday night 6-9 p.m. 5400 Cazadero Hwy, Cazadero, CA 95421.
Visitors to Raymond’s Bakery can enjoy baked delights, pizza, beer, wine, and live music in the garden – every Friday night 6-9 p.m. (Courtesy photo)
Rocker Oysterfellers
This funky eatery and saloon, located in the historic Valley Ford Hotel, features great cocktails and routinely dishes out exceptionally delicious oysters, po’boys and other Southern-influenced comforts. A favorite stop en route to Bodega Bay, Rocker is often busy, particularly on “Oyster Thursdays” when a chilled Tomales Bay Miagi oyster served raw on the half shell with a Lemon-Honey-Jalapeno Mignonette costs only $1. The back patio is great, in every way. 14415 Shoreline Hwy, Valley Ford, CA 94972.
The back patio at funky Rocker Oysterfellers is great, in every way. (southersonomacountrylife.com)
Russian River Vineyards Restaurant & Farm
Another top 100 outdoor dining spot, according to Open Table, Russian River Vineyards Restaurant and Farm serves “eclectic” American food from a menu that changes seasonally to capture the very best of the vineyard’s on-site farm produce. Diners can enjoy romantic evenings in the 1890s farmhouse, or on the patio with views of the vineyard. 5700 CA-116, Forestville, CA 95436.
Diners at Russian River Vineyards Restaurant can enjoy romantic evenings in the 1890s farmhouse, or on the patio with views of the vineyard. (Courtesy photo)
BODEGA BAY
Drake’s Fireside Lounge
Drake’s Fireside Lounge is the perfect place to relax and experience the Sonoma Coast. Get cozy indoors next to a stone fireplace or take in the sunset, nestled in a teak rocking chair by the outdoor fire pit. Through the lenses of the patio binoculars, you can track migrating whales, spot coastal birds, or follow the kite surfers in the distant harbor. Diners at Drake’s can enjoy appetizers, salads, soups and sandwiches complemented by signature cocktails, handcrafted beers and Sonoma County wine. 103 CA-1, Bodega Bay, CA 94923.
Drake’s Fireside Lounge is the perfect place to experience the Sonoma Coast. Get cozy indoors next to a stone fireplace or take in the sunset, nestled in a teak rocking chair by the outdoor fire pit. (yelp.com)
Fishermans Cove
A no-nonsense family-owned seafood shack and fishing-marine supply store specializing in fresh local oysters harvested from Tamales Bay. Oysters are served on half shell or barbecued with a choice of six different house specialty sauces — garlic butter sauce, cocktail sauce, chorizo butter with a hint of lemon and more. Try the restaurant’s oysters with pesto sauce and applewood bacon, or opt for oysters Kilpatrick or Sweet Heaters with pickled jalepeno, shallots and raw mignonette. Outdoor dining available at communal tables overlooking the bay. 1850 Bay Flat Rd, Bodega Bay, CA 94923.
At Fisherman’s Cove, enjoy oysters with some local crafts beer at on of the communal tables overlooking the bay. (yelp.com)
Spud Point Crab Company
This family operated old-style Fishermen’s Wharf restaurant is a “dream-come-true” for owners Tony and Carol Anello. Tony, a retired firefighter, has been fishing commercially since 1970. The restaurant’s fresh crab and wild king salmon is caught by Tony and his son Mark’s boats “Annabelle” and “Cape Ommaney.” Carol and daughters Lisa and Gina run the store, serving hot coffee, hot dogs, chili dogs, and tri-tip sandwiches (a fishermen’s favorite), along with hot chili and a famous clam chowder and crab cakes. The outdoor picnic tables afford fantastic views of the bay and the fishing fleet, or you can watch the fresh crab being prepared in a large cooker just outside the shop. 1910 Westshore Rd, Bodega Bay, CA 94923.
Did we miss one of your favorite Sonoma County outdoor dining spots? Please let us know in the comments section below.
Arriving at the battle site, I’d just established my position on a hay bale when an ill-kempt and bearded soldier dressed in grey flannel let forth with a blood curdling rebel yell. A cacophony of musket shots followed, a roar of cannons reverberated, ragged battle flags waved defiantly in the breeze while fallen men lay motionless on the ground.
Thankfully, the scene in front of me was not played out by unsettled ghosts from a distant Civil War past, but rather by re-enactors immersed in history on a post-millennial Sonoma County meadow. The battle over, the mud-caked soldiers of the Duncan Mills Civil War Days straggled toward R&R and safety — an onsite hot dog stand — and a peak at their “wireless telegraph” smartphones. My first experience witnessing a living history extravaganza — and I was already hooked. And this before I had a chance to snap a selfie with Abraham Lincoln!
If you would also like to reconnect with history, we’ve listed a few ideas on how you can open the portal to the past in Sonoma County.
1. Explore a Former Native American Settlement and Russian Fortress at Fort Ross
Fort Ross State Historic Park on the Sonoma Coast has attracted visitors for over a century with its unique and multifaceted history. Once a Kashaya settlement, Ft. Ross became the southernmost Russian settlement and fur trading post in North America from 1812 to 1842.When the Russians moved on, the fort became a commercial agricultural and logging hub. Ft. Ross is now a National Historic Landmark and a treasured state park.
Fort Ross Festival: Every year in July, California State Parks and Fort Ross Conservancy put on the Fort Ross Festival which celebrates “the diverse international flavors and cultures of Fort Ross.” Festivities include costumed historical vignettes, hands-on-crafts, horse and buggy rides, music and dance performances, an international food bazaar, and a beer garden.
Admission is $20 per car, $100 per small capacity bus (24 or fewer people), and $225 for a large capacity bus (greater than 25 people). For more information, email info@fortross.org, or call (707) 847-3437.
The historic fort can also be visited year round. Park grounds open daily from sunrise to sunset. The Fort Compound and Visitor Center are open from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., California State Parks staff also offer free 30-minute historic talks in the compound on most weekends at noon and 2 p.m.
Fort Ross State Historic Park, 19005 Coast Hwy, Jenner, (707) 847-3286, fortross.org.
2. Follow in the Footsteps of Jack London in Glen Ellen
Much traveled and much acclaimed writer Jack London set down roots in Sonoma County in 1905. Together with his second wife and travel companion Charmian (a writer and character in her own right), Jack settled on a small rundown farm on 130 acres in Glen Ellen.
Not one to rest on his laurels, London soon set about exploring his newly acquired land on horseback, and then began implementing the latest and most innovative agricultural techniques available at the time. Jack’s Glen Ellen “Beauty Ranch” became his primary focus and, apart from an adventurous Pacific Ocean sailing sojourn on his beloved Snark, London spent his last years here. The author died on his Sonoma County ranch in 1916.
Visitors to Jack London State Park can see the ruins of Jack and Charmian’s dream home “Wolf House” which burned down the day before they were to occupy it in 1913. You can visit London’s boulder gravesite, the cottage in which he lived and wrote, and the House of Happy Walls. The latter was built by Charmian London and Eliza Shepard (Jack London’s step-sister) after London’s death. It served as home for Charmian and now serves as a museum for Jack’s artifacts and work.
The House of Happy Walls at Jack London State Historic Park. (Photo Courtesy Jack London State Historic Park)
Jack London Centenary Events: This year, to commemorate the centenary of Jack London’s death, Jack London State Historic Park is hosting a series of special events.For more information, click here.
Free Docent Guided Tours: Jack London State Historic Park also offers free docent guided tours of Wolf House, Jack London’s Grave site and Beauty Ranch.
The docent-led tours take you to the ruins of the Wolf House and London’s gravesite from the House of Happy Walls Museum at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. on weekends. Tours of Beauty Ranch begin at 2 p.m. and include a visit to the barns on the ranch, to Jack London’s cottage, and to Jack’s Pig Palace and silos.
Tours are free; there is a small fee to view the interior of London’s faithfully restored writing cottage. The cottage is open 12 – 4 p.m. seven days a week. Staffed by volunteers, it is occasionally closed so call in advance to make sure the cottage is open on a particular day. Admission fees are $4 for adults, $2 for seniors (age 62+), and $2 for students (age 13-18). Children age 12 and under are free.
Jack London State Historic Park, 2400 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, 707-938-5216, jacklondonpark.com.
3. Discover the History of Petaluma — by Foot or by Boat
Petaluma, one of the oldest cities in California, was settled during Gold Rush years in 1851. The city’s location as a transportation hub on the Petaluma River was instrumental in its rapid growth during the 19th and 20th centuries — scow schooners and steamers embarked here for the burgeoning city of San Francisco laden with agricultural produce and raw materials.
Petaluma soon established a reputation for its grain milling and chicken processing industries, and the city became known as the “Egg Capital of the World.” Today, Petaluma’s historical prosperity is still visible in the many distinguished and well-preserved Victorian homes and commercial buildings on the western side of the river.
Free Walking Tours of Petaluma are held on most Saturdays, May through October. Participants get a chance to learn about the pioneering days of Petaluma from docents in period dress, taking on the role of the city’s early settlers. Meet on the steps of the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum at 10:30 a.m. Call in advance to make sure a tour is being held.
The Petaluma Historical Library and Museum, 20 Fourth Street, Petaluma, (707) 778-4398, petalumamuseum.com.
The Petaluma Heritage Homes Biennial Tour, is held this year on September 18, from 1 – 8 p.m. This year’s tour will help benefit a retrofit of the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum. Tickets go on sale a few weeks before the tour. On December 4, the houses will be decorated for the holidays.
At River Heritage Days, historic boats from San Francisco Maritime Park travel up to Petaluma where they are available for tours and rides. Festivities include a barn dance, boat building workshops, nature awareness activities and plenty of family friendly fun.
4. Watch Mid-1800s Mexican-California Come to Life at the Petaluma Adobe State Park
In 1834, military commander Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo was ordered to leave his post at the Presidio of San Francisco to relocate north of the Bay. Vallejo was instructed to accomplish three things: to secularize the San Francisco Solano Mission in Sonoma, to colonize the area by starting a pueblo (Sonoma), and to be near the Russian outpost at Fort Ross.
Vallejo was granted the Rancho Petaluma and began construction of a ranch house and factory. In its operational days between 1836 and 1857, the Rancho Petaluma employed up to 2,000 Native Americans and became one of the largest ranches north of the San Francisco Bay and a social-economic center of Northern California.
Living History Day at Petaluma Adobe State Park:Every year in May, Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park celebrates Living History Day. Visitors can see the mid 1800s Mexican-California come to life outside of the two story Adobe as historical reenactments portray the vaqueros, traders, cooks and craftsmen who inhabited the rancho.
Docent led tours of the Adobe are also available on most weekends, inquire for details.
Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park, 3325 Adobe Rd, Petaluma, 707-762-4871, petalumaadobe.com.
5. Learn More About Sonoma’s Rich History by Visiting Sonoma State Historic Park
The town (pueblo) of Sonoma was founded in an area once populated by tribes of Coastal Miwok. Mission San Francisco Solano, established in 1823, was the last and the northern most mission founded in California.
In 1833, Lt. Mariano Vallejo was sent northward from the Presidio San Francisco in command of a company of soldiers to secularize the mission, lay out a pueblo and guard against the encroachment of foreigners: the Russian presence at Ft. Ross and Sutter’s demands of sovereignty and an independent principality in the Sacramento area. Sonoma Barracks was built to house his troops. Vallejo quickly went about laying out the town and plaza of Sonoma.
Californio soldiers under Comandante-General Mariano Vallejo drill at Sonoma barracks. (Photo by militarymuseum.org)
Sonoma State Historic Park is a scattering of historical attractions around the Sonoma Plaza. Sites include the Mission San Francisco Solano, the Blue Wing Inn, Sonoma Barracks, the Toscano Hotel, the Servants Quarters (the remains of La Casa Grande) and General Mariano Vallejo’s home — Lachryma Montis (less than a mile west of the plaza).
Sonoma State Historic Park, various location around the Sonoma Plaza, Mission: (707) 938-9560, Vallejo’s Home: (707) 938-9559, Barracks: (707) 939-9420.
Mission San Francisco Solano in Sonoma. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
6. See the Bear Flag Revolt Re-Enacted at the Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival in Sonoma
In the Bear Flag revolt of June 1846, a ragtag group of Americans seeking to emulate the Texas revolt against Mexico took the town of Sonoma from its founder General Mariano Vallejo. The rebels, like the Texans before them, proclaimed an independent republic under the Bear Flag rather than annexing the territory for the United States. Less than a month later, Navy Lt. Joseph Revere, grandson of Paul Revere, took the Bear Flag down and raised the Stars and Stripes for the United States.
Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival: Sonoma’s celebration of its history, community, and culture kicks off on Sept. 23rd at 7 p.m. with a reenactment of the Bear Flag Revolt. See it all play out live in front of the historic Sonoma Barracks (Sonoma State Historic Park, 20 E Spain St, Sonoma). Also at the festival: food, wine, music, poster contest, 12 and 5 K runs, and Get Your Glow on Parade. Inaugurated in 1897, this is Valley of the Moon Festival’s 119th year.
7. Tour the Home, Gardens and Experimental Farm of a Famed Horticulturist and Botanist
Luther Burbank was 21 years old when he lost his father in 1870. Having grown up on a farm, the young Burbank used his inheritance to buy a 17-acre plot of land near Lunenburg in his native Massachusetts. There, he developed the Burbank potato. He later sold the rights to his potato for $150 and used the proceeds to travel to Santa Rosa, where three of his brothers had already settled.
In Santa Rosa, Burbank purchased a 4-acre plot of land where he established a greenhouse, a nursery, and experimental fields that he used to conduct crossbreeding experiments on plants — inspired by Charles Darwin’s “The Variation of Animals and Plants under Domestication.” Later, Burbank acquired the Gold Ridge Farm in Sebastopol to allow for more acreage in which to conduct his crossbreeding experiments.
During his 55-year career, Burbank developed more than 800 strains and varieties of plants — notable examples include the Shasta daisy, the fire poppy, the “Santa Rosa” plum, the “Flaming Gold” nectarine, the freestone peach and the white blackberry.
Luther Burbank became an internationally known celebrity during his lifetime. Many famous people made the journey to small-town Santa Rosa to visit the plant breeder and view his experiments. Henry Ford and Thomas Edison met Luther Burbank at the Santa Rosa Gardens for one afternoon in 1915. Both signed Mr. Burbank’s guest book.On October 8, 1905, Luther Burbank received a letter from Jack London, whom Burbank later described as his “almost neighbor”, living just across the hills. “Now, what I want to know,” wrote Mr. London, “is could you give me a tip to any kinds of exceptionally good fruits and grapes for me to plant?” Jack and his wife Charmian visited Burbank on several occasions. London remarked Burbank’s guest book, “I’d rather be doing what you are doing than be Roosevelt, Rockefeller, King Edward and the Kaiser rolled into one.”Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in Santa Rosa, CA.
Visit Luther Burbank Home & Gardens: Public tour season of Luther Burbank Home & Gardens in Santa Rosa runs from April through October. Stop by Tuesday through Sunday, between 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m., for docent led tours. Adults $10; children 12-18, seniors and college students with ID $8.50; children under 12 free with an adult. Group Tours and Children’s Tours are available year-round with advance reservations.
Luther Burbank Home & Gardens, 204 Santa Rosa Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95404, 707-524-5445, lutherburbank.org.
Visit Luther Burbank’s Gold Ridge Experiment Farm: Tours of Luther Burbank’s Gold Ridge Experiment Farm in Sebastopol are available during opening hours (Thurs — Sun, 1-4 p.m.) — a free trail map can be picked up by the kiosk and barn. Docent tours are available by appointment.
8. Visit the Ghosts of the Past on a Cemetery Walk in Sebastopol or Santa Rosa
The Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery is a popular spot for history buffs. The 17-acre historic landmark, primarily used from the 1850s to 1930s, is the burial site for many of the city’s earliest residents. Names like Carillo, Hoen, and Hahman — the families who built Santa Rosa — can be found on gravestones here.
Women’s History Tour: On August 27, visitors to the cemetery can see portrayals of the women who helped shape Santa Rosa and Sonoma County.
Tours begin at 10 a.m., 10:15 a.m. and 10:30 a.m., approximately 1 hour long, $15 rain or shine. To register, click here or call (707) 543-3737. Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Tours last approximately one hour and leave from the McDonald Gate every 20 minutes from 7:30pm to 9:50pm, pre-registration required. $35 rain or shine. To register, click here or call (707) 543-3737. Santa Rosa Rural Cemetery, Santa Rosa, CA 95404.
Tickets cost $35 per person; proceeds go to Gold Ridge Experimental Farm and West County Museum. For tickets, click here. This event will sell out fast, so get your tickets early.
9. Watch an Ancient Steam-Powered Mill in Action in Occidental
The town of Occidental was founded in 1876.The timber industry grew rapidly here after the North Pacific Railroad connected the town to the Sausalito ferry and its service to San Francisco in 1877.Soon, as many as six timber mills in the Occidental area worked round the clock to shape redwoods into the lumber that built San Francisco and other early Californian cities.
Wade Sturgeon’s steam-powered mill was built in the 1880s on what is now the Korbel Winery property near the Russian River. After changing hands and locations a few times, the mill was relocated once again in 1924 to its current location in Occidental.
Historic photo of the workers at Sturgeon’s Mill. (Courtesy of Sturgeon’s Mill Restoration Project)
Sturgeon Mill, one of the world’s last steam-powered sawmills using original equipment, is now a unique piece of history. The mill, a non-profit working museum, fires up its 19th-century Atlas Steam Engine a few times per year.
The next live demonstrations of the mill are scheduled on September 17-18 and October 15 – 16, from 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.. There is no charge, but donations towards the restoration projects are gladly accepted.
Sturgeon’s Mill Restoration Project, 2150 Green Hill Road, Sebastopol, (707) 829-2479, sturgeonsmill.com.
Harvey Henningsen, left, and Ron Sturgeon run a log through the blades of the headrig at Sturgeon’s Mill.
10. See a Civil War Battle Play Out Before your Eyes Near Duncans Mills
Each year in July, Confederate and Union soldiers invade the sleepy Northern California hamlet of Duncans Mills.The Civil War Days extravaganza in Duncans Mills, touted as Northern California’s largest Civil War reenactment — one of the largest reenactments west of the Mississippi — is definitely worth a visit. The battlefields are located on a campground in the Russian River resort area, meadows picturesquely surrounded by redwood covered hills.
Visitors to the Civil War Days can watch the drama unfold on the battlefield from the safe distance of bleachers and strategically placed straw bales. In between battles (there are usually two per day), you can stroll around the site; check out period dress in one of the many tents, chat with the re-enactors as they unwind by the campfire — or snap a selfie with Abe Lincoln. There is a hot dog shack if you get hungry — or you can bring your own picnic in a knapsack or cooler.Admission is $12 for adults, $6 for juniors age 7-12, and free for children 6 and under. Parking costs $5 per vehicle. Cash only.
Civil War Days at Duncans Mills, (707) 922-5901, civilwardays.net.
The tiny town of Duncans Mills is well-worth a visit as you travel from the river area to the coast. Founded in 1877, Duncans Mills was originally the location of Alexander Duncan’s saw mill. Lumber from the mill travelled via the North Pacific Coast Railroad to Sausalito and then onward to San Francisco via ferry and shallow draft scow schooners.
When the railroad ceased operations in the 1930’s, Duncans Mills suffered. The town experienced a rebirth during the country’s Bicentennial celebrations in 1976. Today the town is a quaint vibrant station on your way to the coast from the river towns: with a charming general store, fine restaurants including live music venue The Blue Heron, a candy store, a comfortable coffee shop and other thriving businesses.
11. Choo Choo on Up to Mendocino
The California Western Railroad, popularly known as the Skunk Train, runs between the historical and picturesque coastal town of Fort Bragg (founded prior to the Civil War as a military garrison) and the interchange with the Northwestern Pacific Railroad at Willits.
This heritage railroad, built during the timber rush of the late 19th century, initially carried redwood logs from the dense forests at Glenela (Glen Blair) to a newly built lumber mill located at Fort Bragg. In 1925, gas-powered, self-propelled, passenger railcars started running these tracks. The cars were nicknamed “Skunks” because people said, “you can smell ‘em before you can see ‘em.”
The “Super Skunk” — a Baldwin-built steam locomotive No.45 — now powers excursion trains through majestic redwood forests, scenic mountain meadows and over 30 trestles bridging the mountain waters of Northern California.
For reservations call (707) 964-6371, or click here to book online. Skunk Train, 100 W Laurel St, Fort Bragg.
Looking for something fun to do? Here’s what you can look forward to this weekend. Get your apple fix this weekend at the Gravenstein Apple Fair. Enjoy some good old fashioned river fun at the Healdsburg Water Carnival. Place your final bets on the last day of this year’s Horse Racing at the Fairgrounds. All this and more is in our list of things to do.
FRIDAY, Aug. 12
Wags, Whiskers & Wine Gala: This Friday, join Trentadue Winery in Geyserville for an evening of wine, food, animals and more. The annual event includes auctions with impressive prizes, live music, a gourmet dinner and more. The event starts at 5:30 p.m., and tickets are $175. Find out all the details at trentadue.com.
Romeo & Juliet: We Players presents Shakespeare’s Romeo & Juliet, running this Friday through Sept. 25 at Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park. The outside matinees offer a 360 degree sphere of performance, and is timed with the sunset. Tickets are $45-$80. Find out more at weplayers.org.
An Author Walks Into a Bar: Come to Jamison’s Roaring Donkey this Friday at 7 p.m. to meet author Drew Magary, the author of “The Hike.” If you buy a book at this Copperfield’s sponsored event, your drink is free. In Magary’s fantasy novel, he incorporates the world of classic folk along with elements from video games for a journey propelled by heart, imagination and survival. Find out more at www.copperfieldsbooks.com.
Movies in the Park: Grab the family and a picnic blanket for an evening under the stars in front of the big screen. Howarth Park presents “Hotel Transylvania 2” as this Friday’s pick for Movies in the Park. The event starts at 7:30 p.m., with the movie beginning at dusk. The movie is free, and there will be food to purchase from local vendors. Find out more at pd2go.net/HowarthMoviesInThePark.
Big Fish: Based on the novel and screenplay by Daniel Wallace, Spreckel’s Theatre Company presents “Big Fish,” the story of a traveling salesman who is also a charismatic teller of tall tales. The show runs Aug. 12-28, and tickets are $16-$26. Find out all the details at www.spreckelsonline.com.
Jazz on the River: Every Friday night, the Peter Welker Sextet performs just outside Graffiti in Petaluma, playing jazz from 6-8 p.m. The no cover event features music by Deborah Winters, Randy Vincent, Mel Martin, Chris Amberger and Peter Welker. Find out more at peterwelker.com.
Petaluma Library’s Summer Booksale: This weekend, add to your book collection when Petaluma Regional Library holds their seasonal book fair, offering a trove of great reads at a bargain. Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. is Children’s Sale Day. Saturday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., all books are half off. More sale days Aug. 17-20, and new books are added daily. Find out all the details at sonomalibrary.org.
John Simmons, age 12, right, and his sister Katherine, age 8, compete in the second round of the apple pie eating contest at the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol. (Photo by Alvin Jornada)
SATURDAY, Aug. 13
Gravenstein Apple Fair: The 43rd annual event takes place Aug. 13 & 14 at Ragle Ranch Park in Sebastopol, with live music, local food, cider, microbrews, family fun and more. $8-$20. Kids 5 and under free. www.gravensteinapplefair.com
Healdsburg Water Carnival: Enjoy a day of mermaids, rubber ducks, a giant swan and more when the Healdsburg Water Carnival comes to the Russian River this Saturday. From 11 a.m. to 5 pm., enjoy old-fashioned revelry at Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach. Bring your swimsuit and enjoy a day of water fun. Find out all the information at pd2go.net/HburgWaterCarnival2016.
City Kids Festival: This Saturday, low-income families are invited to Juilliard Park in Santa Rosa to help get their kids ready for school. The event will include free backpacks and school supplies, plus food, activities and more. Registration is required to receive backpacks and supplies. The event begins at 10 a.m. For more information, visit srmission.org.
Mutts & Models Fashion Show: Strutting the runway this Saturday at the Santa Rosa Plaza are some adorable dogs with stylish humans. Julie Nation Academy is partnering with Sonoma County Animal Services, showing off the latest fashions for back-to-school shopping along with dogs and puppies available for adoption. The show starts at 2 p.m. at Center Court. Find out all the details at pd2go.net/muttsmodels2016.
Swing Dancing Under the Stars: Dance the night away at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in Geyserville in a night of wine, food and dancing in their outdoor Pavillion. This Saturday, live music will be performed by rockabilly swing band Lost Dog Found. Come at 6 p.m. for lessons, then dance 7-10 p.m. Cost for this 21-plus event is $25-$30 per person. Find out more at francisfordcoppolawinery.com.
Horse racing at the Sonoma County Fair in Santa Rosa coming up on Sunday. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
SUNDAY, Aug. 14
Last Day of Horse Racing at the Fairgrounds: The fair might be over, but the horses are still racing. Grab a seat and bid on your favorite horse before the races end for the season. Tickets are $3-$5, or more for specialty seating. Find out more at sonomacountyfair.com.
McKenna Faith: Nashville country musician from Ukiah, ‘Sundays in the Park’ season finale, 6-8 p.m. Sunday, Todd Grove Park, Ukiah. Free. 463-6231, cityofukiah.com.
OTHER UPCOMING EVENTS…
Friday, Aug. 12
‘The Plot Against Shakespeare’: Sonoma County playwright David Beckman’s new play, ‘Shakespeare in the Cannery’ performance, 7 tonight, Railroad Square, Santa Rosa. $5-$28. shakespeareinthecannery.com.
‘Official Blues Brothers Revue’: Wayne Catania and Kieron Lafferty, 8 tonight, House of Rock, Santa Rosa. $45-$60. 791-3482, rockstaruniversity.com.
‘The Taming of the Shrew’: Raven Players’ production of Shakespeare’s classic battle of the sexes, 8 tonight, Bear Republic courtyard, Healdsburg. $10-$25. 433-6335, raventheater.org.
Saturday, Aug. 13
‘Desi Comedy Fest’: South Asian comedy festival, 11 comedians, 7 p.m. Saturday, Muscardini Cellars, Kenwood. $30-$35. 933-9305, muscardinicellars.com.
‘Nice Work If You Can Get It’: Musical comedy, Summer Repertory Theatre season closer, 2 and 8 p.m. Saturday, Burbank Auditorium, Santa Rosa Junior College, Santa Rosa. $18-$25. 527-4307, summerrep.com.
Men of Worth: Celtic musicians James Keigher and Donnie Macdonald, 8 p.m. Saturday, Cinnabar Theater, Petaluma. $25-$30. 763-8920, cinnabartheater.org.
‘Exposure: The Female Nude in Photography’: Opening exhibit of 120 photographs, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday, Art Museum of Sonoma County, Santa Rosa. $7-$10. 579-1500, sonomacountymuseum.org.
Sunday, Aug. 14
McKenna Faith: Nashville country musician from Ukiah, ‘Sundays in the Park’ season finale, 6-8 p.m. Sunday, Todd Grove Park, Ukiah. Free. 463-6231, cityofukiah.com.
Rabia Chaudry: Author of ‘Adnan’s Story’ in conversation with Press Democrat columnist Chris Smith, 2 p.m. Sunday, Copperfield’s Books, Petaluma. Free. 762-0563, copperfieldsbooks.com.
Zulu Spear: World music, ‘BBQ on the Lawn,’ 4 p.m. Sunday, Rancho Nicasio. $20. (415) 662-2219, ranchonicasio.com/music.
Scott Stapp: ‘The Voice of Creed,’ alternative rock, 8 p.m. Tuesday, Mystic Theatre, Petaluma. $33. 765-2121, mystictheatre.com.
Mother Truckers: Rock band, ‘Tuesdays in the Plaza’ outdoor concert series, 6-8 p.m. Tuesday, Healdsburg Plaza. Free. ci.healdsburg.ca.us.
Wednesday, Aug. 17
Jeff Beck & Buddy Guy: Premier guitarists, 8 p.m. Wednesday, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $79-$149. 546-3600, lutherburbankcenter.org.
The Pulsators: Rock ’n’ roll dance band, ‘Peacetown Summer Concert Series,’ 5-8 p.m. Wednesday, Ives Park, Sebastopol. Free. 823-1511, peacetown.org.
Thursday, Aug. 18
Erik Castro: Conversation with ‘Harvester’ photojournalist, 6-7:30 p.m. Thursday, Christie Marks Fine Art Gallery, Santa Rosa. Free, call for reservations. 695-1011, christiemarksfineart.com.
Caravanserai: Music of Santana, ‘Rockin’ the River’ outdoor concert series, 6:30 p.m. Thursday, Guerneville Plaza. Free. rockintheriver.org.
‘Guitar Ancestors’: History talk and performance by Dominic Schaner, 6:30-8:30 p.m. Thursday, Museums of Sonoma County, Santa Rosa. $15. 579-1500, sonomacountymuseum.org.
Friday, Aug. 19
Silk Road Ensemble: Classical music with Yo-Yo Ma and 16 other artists, 7:30 p.m. Aug. 19, Weill Hall and Lawn, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $25-$125. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.
‘Drawing the Tiger’: ‘Best of the Fest’ summertime film series, 7 p.m. Aug. 19, Sebastopol Center for the Arts. $12. sebastopolfilmfestival.org.
‘Animal Crackers’: Marx Brothers’ comedic mayhem, opening night, 8 p.m. Aug. 19, 6th Street Playhouse, Santa Rosa. $15-$38. 523-3544, 6thstreetplayhouse.com.
BeauSoleil: Cajun dance band, ‘Friday Night Live’ outdoor concert series, 7 p.m. Aug. 19, Cloverdale Plaza. Free. 894-4410, cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Volker Strifler: Blues, rock and Americana, ‘Funky Fridays’ outdoor concert, 7 p.m. Aug. 19, Hood Mansion, Santa Rosa. $10. 833-6288, funkyfridays.info.
Saturday, Aug. 20
Trevor Noah: ‘Lost in Translation’ with the ‘Comedy Central’ host, 7:30 p.m. Aug. 20, Weill Hall and Lawn, Green Music Center, Rohnert Park. $25-$75. (866) 955-6040, gmc.sonoma.edu.
Cotati Accordion Festival: Weekend festival opener, accordion music, vendors, food, 9:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Aug. 20, La Plaza Park, Cotati. $15-$19. (888) 559-2576, cotatifest.com.
Dixie Giants: New Orleans jazz, KRCB ‘Concerts in the Garden’ series, 4-6 p.m. Aug. 20, Chroma Gallery, Santa Rosa. Free. 293-6051, chromagallery.net.
Sonoma County Veg Fest: Vegetarian/vegan food, speakers, entertainment, films, kids’ activities, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Aug. 20, Luther Burbank Center, Santa Rosa. $5. 540-1760, socovegfest.org.
Kingsborough: Santa Rosa-based rock ’n’ roll and blues band, 9 p.m. Aug. 20, HopMonk Tavern, Sebastopol. $10. 829-7300, hopmonk-sebastopol.ticketfly.com.
Pop Rocks: Cover band, ‘Rockin’ Concerts’ series, noon-3 p.m. Aug. 20, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Sunday, Aug. 21
Broadway Under the Stars: ‘Dance the Night Away’ closing night, 7:30 p.m. Aug. 21, Jack London State Historic Park, Glen Ellen. $42-$134. (877) 424-1414, transcendencetheatre.org.
Foreverland: Michael Jackson tribute band, ‘Dance on the Lawn,’ noon-3 p.m. Aug. 21, Chateau St. Jean Winery, Kenwood. Free. 257-5784, chateaustjean.com.
‘Music in the Vineyards’: Ariel Quartet, chamber music, Beethoven program, 5 p.m. Aug. 21, Inglenook Winery, Rutherford. $60. 258-5559, musicinthevineyards.org.
The Brothers Comatose: Folk, bluegrass and Americana band, 7 p.m. Aug. 21, Long Meadow Ranch, St. Helena. $35-$45. 963-4555, longmeadowranch.com.
Dean Grech: Jazz guitarist and vocalist, 1-4 p.m. Aug. 21, Village Court, Montgomery Village, Santa Rosa. Free. 545-3844, mvshops.com.
Huey Lewis & The News: Rock ’n’ roll band, 5 p.m. Aug. 21, Rodney Strong Vineyards, Healdsburg. Sold out. 431-1533, rodneystrong.com.
Photography by Brennan Spark (www.brennanspark.com)
Sonoma County is filled with scenic hikes, breathtaking waterfront views, artistically presented food and drinks, and picturesque buildings begging for photo ops. Whether you’re a professional photographer or an Instagram addict, it’s a beautiful place to be and to snap away your day.
Here’s a selection of our favorite local Instagram-worthy spots — perfect for a backdrop or paired with a selfie. Did we miss one of your favorites? Share it with us on Instagram: instagram.com/sonomamag, @sonomamag!
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, Guerneville
What could be a better background for your Instagram feed than a still life of majestic redwoods stretching toward the sky? On a quiet Sunday morning in these Sonoma County woods, you can hear the wind whispering through the trees, and then the clicks of smartphone cameras capturing the moment.
A photo posted by Kaitlin Kerins (@kaitlin_kitch) on
The Russian River
With hundreds of photos tagged “Russian River” on Instagram, the river has proved a popular destination for ‘grammers. Many continue to risk their phone’s life – precariously dangling over a kayak – to get a perfectly composed image of the river, the redwoods, and the blue skies.
The Fremont Diner, Sonoma
This roadside diner is packed with picture-perfect pockets – vintage decor, rusted retro memorabilia, aqua paint tables and American comfort classics. Snap a shot of the “Greetings from Sonoma” mural outside, and you’ve got yourself a digital post card.
Petaluma Pumpkin Patch
Looking to stage some cute photos of the kids that will knock the socks off of your fellow insta-Moms/Dads? Snap away at the Petaluma Pumpkin Patch while junior explores the hay bales, the corn maze and the oh-so-stunning sunflower field. The only photo op that could possibly rival a shot of your adorable offspring – the cute and cuddly baby farm animals.
squad A photo posted by Rebecca Skidgel (@rebeccaskidgel) on
The Barlow, Sebastopol
If you build it (in corrugated metal) and add cool designs to it — Instagrammers will come. This trendy marketplace features a wide variety of artisan restaurants, breweries, tasting rooms, coffee shops, boutiques and galleries where you can capture the local makers in action.
Petaluma Historical Library & Museum
This neoclassical style Carnegie Library is a local treasure. It features original fan-glass windows, interior wood panelling and columns, and the largest free-standing leaded glass dome in Northern California.
Paradise Ridge Winery Sculptures, Santa Rosa
This Kenwood winery, featuring a sculpture exhibit on the grounds, is the definition of Instagram bait. Guests are invited to wander the estate post tasting to snap photos of the winery’s works of art.
Duncans Landing, Bodega Bay
These panoramic views of Sonoma Coast beaches and cliffs are a must-stop for a vacation/stay-cation picture. You’ll be handsomely rewarded in the form of Insta likes.
Tea Room Café, Petaluma
Looking to snap a trendy breakfast photo? This popular Petaluma spot serves up picture-perfect lattes. Don’t hesitate to get on your toes and hover over your food to get the best brunch shot for your feed.
Screamin’ Mimi’s, Sebastopol
If you ever need an excuse for ice cream indulgence, the photogenic scoops at Screamin’ Mimi’s will more than suffice. You’ll need to order all the flavors to capture the full color palette — from pistachio to rose. The cute ice cream parlor décor frames your background.
Patrick’s Salt Water Taffy, Bodega Bay
It’s hard to miss the bright pink and white striped wall outside this taffy shop in Bodega Bay. Grab a friend and a bag of your favorite green apple, peppermint, or lemon taffies and have fun posing.
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, Santa Rosa
Anywhere you look here, there is another photo opportunity: trees as far as the eye can see, flowing waterfalls, lush meadows along the trails and grounds covered with wildflowers. The summer months are ideal for clear and sunny shots of this most photogenic of parks.
Helen Putnam Park, Petaluma
Prime poppy season in this Petaluma park is paradise. Find the perfect angle as the sun hits the wildflowers. You’ll be rewarded with a lot of share-love.
Desserts at Madrona Manor, Healdsburg
The desserts at this posh Healdsburg B&B hit the sweet spot. The confectionary masterpieces, prepared by award-winning pastry chef Emmanuel “Manny” Fimbrez, will stand the test of Instagramming time.
St. Teresa of Avila AKA “The Birds Church,” Bodega
While you may not be the first person caught posing, by humorously cowering from the birds overhead, your old school black and white filter shot is sure to become the star of your Instagram account.
Wishbone, Petaluma
Heart-shaped latte art never seems to go out of style on Instagram — and this restaurant is a good spot for continuing that trend. The Wishbone coffee menu includes the “El Toro Rojo Spicy Mexican Mocha” and a “Beekeeper Lavender Latte,” both almost too pretty to drink.
SHED, Healdsburg
SHED, a local market, restaurant, café, and fermentation bar all in one, is Christmas morning for Instagrammers. Its sleek wood design, fresh produce, Japanese/Scandinavian-style utensils, and colorful flowers led one photographer to comment “I’m resisting the urge to Instagram the entire place.”
Goat Rock Beach, Jenner
This is one of the most picturesque spots on the Sonoma Coast. With steep cliffs overlooking turquoise waters and a wide sandy beach — you don’t even need an eye for photography to appreciate the goodness of this scenery.
River’s End Restaurant, Jenner
This Jenner restaurant not only features fabulous food and drinks, it also boasts a deck with views of the Sonoma Coast. Snap a sunset-lit shot of your champagne glass or a panorama of the coastal scenery, and you’ve hit Insta gold.
Sandstone Hills at Salt Point State Park
The sedimentary sandstone rocks in this state park contrast beautifully against bright blue skies. Snap away on 20 miles of hiking trails with panoramic Pacific Ocean views.
Beltane Ranch House, Glen Ellen
The bright yellow and white house at historic Beltane Ranch has been around since 1892, but it only seems to get better with every year. Swirl like a Southern Belle on the wrap-around porch while snapping selfies sans regret – like Scarlett O’Hara, you can think about it tomorrow.
Duke’s Spirited Cocktails, Healdsburg
It is hard to decide whether to drink these farm-to-glass works of art, or frame them. Thankfully, you can do both. No filter is necessary when the cocktails are this good looking.
Domaine Carneros Villa and Vineyards
Villa Carneros is the Versaille of Wine Country where tourists and locals alike flock to sip classic vintage Brut Cuvée – then pause briefly to pose in the parterre-style gardens in front of the chateau.
From a wall-high flower made of driftwood and copper to a 5,000-pound cloud built of LED lights, the work being done at Chimera Arts & Maker Space can’t be neatly categorized by artistic genre — and that’s exactly what its founder intended.
Headquartered in a 3,000-square-foot warehouse in Sebastopol, Chimera provides access to costly tools donated by local artists and engineers. It’s similar to a co-working space, where members pay modest monthly fees. But instead of desks, it’s stocked with 3-D printers, a laser cutter and welding equipment.
“The tools are what drew me in,” said shop manager and silversmith Sugar Chuck, the artist behind the giant flower, adding that the cost of purchasing the torches, buffing wheels, saws and other equipment she needs would far exceed the monthly membership fee. Her work also creates a lot of noise, making Chimera’s industrial setting ideal.
Sugar Chuck works on jewelry at the Chimera Art Space in Sebastopol. Chimera mascot Deeogee sleeps it off. (Kent Porter / Press Democrat)
Dana Woodman, Chimera’s founder, envisioned a nonprofit place that provided tools and space, and allowed artists from various disciplines to mingle.
Chimera opened in December 2013, its logo a lion head, goat body and snake tail serving as a metaphor for the eclectic community of jewelers, knitters, woodworkers and software developers that Woodman hoped to assemble.
Chimera moved from a trailer to its much larger home in April, evidence of the growing need for space in which artists can work. Classes are also offered.
“We’ll have a welder come in and bump into an electrical engineer,” he said. “Together, they’ll come up with ideas that neither of them would have had on their own.”
Chimera Art Space, 6791 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-861-0278, chimeraarts.org
It was just another Sunday morning at the Stewart-Estes home in rural Forestville. John Stewart fed the pigs, rabbits, chickens and duck, as Duskie Estes made breakfast for the couple’s two daughters and the family dog, Chloe.
Then it was off to Davis Family Vineyards in Healdsburg, to test making BLTs and pork-belly poutine in their new food truck, “The Black Piglet.”
The custom vehicle had finally passed a yearlong inspection process the evening before, and would be rolled out for its first service at the Davis winery the following weekend. Next, they headed to their zazu kitchen + farm restaurant in Sebastopol, where Stewart butchered a Front Porch Farm pig while Estes prepped dishes for the day’s lunch and dinner service.
John Stewart cooking in a wood-fired oven at his home in Forestville. (Photo by Erik Castro)
A quick run back home, and the couple tossed some of the just-cut pork into the wood-fire oven that overlooks their orchard and vegetable gardens. A meal of roast pork loin, backyard plums and squashblossom panzanella with the kids, and it was back to zazu to feed their customers.
“It’s just this thing for us every day, dude,” Estes said with a laugh. “Energy makes cool things happen.”
John Stewart slicing up wood-fired pork loin from Front Porch Farms at his home in Forestville. (Photo by Erik Castro)
For the duo, who opened zazu 15 years ago, energy trounces easy. Even in Sonoma, land of handmade, farm-to-table food, this couple goes to the extreme.
Best known for their artisanal ways with pig, their menus often read simply, such as bacon-wrapped dates drizzled in sweet saba, chitarra pasta draped in slow-simmered pork-cheek sugo, and golden roasted pork chop atop faro and fagioli beans.
It’s soul-warming fare in a rustic, California-Mediterranean style. Yet sketching one of their recipes actually goes like this:
Duskie Estes tasting her wood-fired roasted shishito peppers with Marcona almonds and shavings of Pennyroyal Farm Boont Corners cheese alongside an arugula salad at her home in Forestville. (Photo by Erik Castro)
Step one: Find some rare, European heritage-breed Mangalitsa piglets. Step two: Cut through red tape to procure the animals. Step three: Build a “pig palace” in the backyard (complete with a rain shower to keep the piggies cool), raise the creatures on a luxury organic diet, then humanely slaughter them and butcher in your very own USDA certified kitchen. After so many years, it’s still the stuff of wonder for Estes and Stewart, who admit that before moving to Sonoma in 2000, their pork came from packages delivered by a food-service company. In fact, Estes was a vegetarian for 23 years until zazu came along.
Wood-fire roasted pork loin from Front Porch Farms and Santa Rosa plumbs served with a arugula and squash blossom salad next to an iron skillet of wood-fire roasted shishito peppers with Marcona almonds and shavings of Pennyroyal Farm Boont Corners cheese at the home of John Stewart and Duskie Estes in Forestville. (Photo by Erik Castro)
And they’re constantly experimenting, from a new lip balm called Lip Lardo (made with their own pig lard, grapeseed and avocado oils, beeswax, avocado and shea butters, and almond extract), to a Lard Lather soap, to a prototype of bacon Pop Rocks, which Estes acknowledges may die a snap-crackle death because “they smell like feet.”
The potbelly pig known as “Lucky Precious Piggy Pop Nugget” at the home of John Stewart and Duskie Estes in Forestville. (Photo by Erik Castro)
But flash back to 1997, when Stewart, now 48, and Estes, now 47, met while working together at the acclaimed Tom Douglas collection of restaurants in Seattle. Stewart had grown up in New York, Estes in San Francisco.
“We’d been chefs in big cities who just ordered food,” said Stewart, who catered Bill Gates’ wedding in 1994. “Tom worked with farmers, and we liked that. Except at zazu, farmers came in with whole pigs. We had few resources for butchering, so we had to figure it out, and then to make money, we had to learn how to use all the parts in a restaurant way.”
Duskie Estes with one of her rabbits at her home in Forestville. (Photo by Erik Castro)
Call it artisanal, or survival, the couple has done the heavy lifting needed to create what is now a successful operation featuring hearty restaurant dishes such as pork belly and Liberty Duck cassoulet, cocktails including a Black Pig bacon bourbon sour with maple and Madeira, and signature porky delights such as Black Pig bacon caramel popcorn and maple bacon donuts.
“Survival,” Estes said, with her hallmark laugh that expresses constant joy. It was sink or swim in Seattle, when she was hired to cover for a sous chef headed into a recovery program — he had fallen in a deep-fat fryer after drinking a pitcher of lemon drop cocktail. She worked in three Douglas restaurants, each with menus that changed nightly.
“Shove in, dig in, figure it out,” she said.
Duskie Estes picking curry blossoms that she uses for roasted cauliflower from her garden near the entrance to zazu kitchen + farm in The Barlow in Sebastopol, California. June 18, 2016. (Photo: Erik Castro/for Sonoma Magazine)
She immediately fell for Stewart, whom she called “crab cake guy,” since she didn’t know staffer names and because he was the only one who nailed the oil-and-butter ratio for perfect pan browning. “That stole my heart,” she said.
Stewart, meanwhile, was smitten with Estes’ go-get-’em attitude. “Duskie has always been a whirling dervish of energy,” he said.
John Stewart in the dining room chatting with guests at zazu kitchen + farm in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Photo by Erik Castro)
After the two married in Calistoga in 2000, they had dinner at Willowside, a weathered roadhouse on Guerneville Road on the outskirts of Santa Rosa.
The restaurant was for sale.
“It made me want to move back (to California),” Estes said. “But I was seven-and-a-half months pregnant with my daughter, Brydie. So I offered half price, and the owner hung up on me.”
The day of Brydie’s birth, Estes returned from the hospital to find a message on her answering machine, accepting the offer. A week later, she got on a plane with the baby, looked at the restaurant’s books and its closet-size kitchen, and offered half-again less.
“I couldn’t believe we got it,” she said. “We moved here July 1, got the keys Aug. 1, worked around the clock to fix it up, and opened Aug. 13, because we had a client party scheduled.”
John Stewart and Duskie Estes with their children Mackenzie Stewart, 13, far left, and Brydie Stewart, 15, after serving up grilled sandwiches from their Black Pig Meat Co. food truck at Davis Family Vineyards in Healdsburg. (Photo by Erik Castro)
Then 9/11. The couple had to rent out their new home to keep the restaurant going, staying in Healdsburg with Estes’ mom for two years in a one-room loft above her garage.
Baby MacKenzie was born in December 2012.
“I wore her to work with me (in a chest carrier),” Estes recalled. “She was happy, until she was 7 months old and could reach the plates to steal food.”
A bottle of Black Pig pinot noir to accompany buttermilk fried Petaluma chicken with fiscalini cheddar biscuit, red pepper jelly and elote at zazu kitchen + farm in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Photo by Erik Castro)
Their accomplishments have piled up. Stewart runs Black Pig Meat Co., selling heritage-breed bacon and salumi, with his coppa winning a Good Food Awards medal this year. Estes beat out fellow former “Iron Chef America” challengers to compete in season five’s “Next Iron Chef” TV show in 2012, and took home the gold medal in a web-exclusive “Road to Redemption” tournament on foodnetwork.com that same year.
A butcher board of in-house made salumi at zazu kitchen + farm in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Photo by Erik Castro)
In 2011, Estes and Stewart were chosen King & Queen of Porc at the Grand Cochon competition in Aspen, Colo., after winning the regional Cochon 555 cook-off in Napa a few months earlier. It was a major honor: Cochon is a national nose-to-tail pig contest where fine-dining chefs create inventive recipes based on locally raised heritage-breed pigs from family farms.
Just three years ago, the duo relocated zazu from its original, casual roadhouse setup in west Santa Rosa to a modern, much larger space in The Barlow center in downtown Sebastopol.
A Black Pig Sour cocktail made of Black Pig bacon bourbon, maple, madeira and garnished with Rodeo Jax bacon caramel popcorn at zazu kitchen + farm in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Photo by Erik Castro)
They now produce their own salumi, pasta, pizza dough, gelato, bacon-infused bourbon, and chicharrone peanut butter cups. They grow their own produce at home, and at The Barlow and Davis Family Vineyards. On the side, Estes and Stewart work with Thomas George Estates in Healdsburg to make Pink Pig sparkling wine and Black Pig Pinot Noir, and with Tilted Shed Ciderworks in Windsor for a bacon hard cider on tap, and Davis Family for a Slaughter House Syrah.
Lard Lather Rose Geranium soap at zazu kitchen + farm in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Photo by Erik Castro)
Now, showing a visitor around their yellow clapboard farmhouse, Estes and Stewart introduce a stud pig, Big Papa, a 600-pound hybrid. He came to be a preferred sire after the couple played mad scientist three years ago, crossing a rare heritage Mulefoot with a Red Wattle in their backyard, for what they think might be an entirely new breed.
“Mangalitsa piglets were nearly impossible to get, and $600 each,” Estes said. “So we tried raising dierent kinds, winners from Cochon competitions. Then we did dinner taste-os.”
Maple glazed donuts with bacon jimmies at zazu kitchen + farm in The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Photo by Erik Castro)
Currently, Big Papa is dating Tamworth/Duroc and Berkshire/ Hampshire crossbreeds. “That’s enough genetic diversity, and they’re not as tall and skinny as purebreds,” Stewart said. “They’re more round, like I love.”
Every day is a new adventure, Estes said. “It’s a ride, dude. We’ve gotta try, even if it seems everything I want to do now” isn’t yet accepted.
zazu kitchen + farm, 6770 McKinley St., Suite 150, The Barlow, Sebastopol, 707-523-4814, zazukitchen.com
Patio dining at Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
There was a puppy napping in a crate on the patio, a catering truck parked steps away, and in the adjacent garden, a singer serenading diners at Fork Roadhouse on a recent Thursday evening.
Inside the west Sebastopol restaurant, the kitchen was humming, viewed through a peek-a-boo window from the dine-in counter. A young couple stopped in for lattes to go, servers scurried by with bottles of wine, and an older couple smiled when the hostess told them they had snagged the last seat in the dining room.
It was 5:40 p.m., just 10 minutes after the place had opened for the night. But that’s business as usual for owner Sarah Piccolo.
Fork’s website advises guests to make reservations, even for breakfast and lunch. It seems pretty impressive for a business that was born of the very food truck parked outside, and that sports a rural address surrounded by apple orchards, goat pastures and weathered ranch homes.
Fried green tomatoes on South Carolina grits, grilled corn, spinach, parmesan, pistou and prawns from the Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
Then you taste the excellent food and understand why. Fried green tomatoes are crispy outside, hot and juicy inside, and served with creamy grits, grilled sweet corn, spinach, Parmesan and garlicky pistou ($18). Blue Leg Farm shishito peppers are blistered on the grill with a sparkle of pink sea salt ($5), while squid and prawn are skewered, grilled to a tender chew and plated with smashed avocado, spicy radish and lime ($11).
The setting is so Sonoma. The lovely indoor area glows with a pretty tile patchwork counter, gleaming polished wood tables, menus posted on chalkboards, French curtained windows overlooking meadows across the street, and another dining room in back. Eating at a slatted wood table overlooking the gardenside creek is even more blissful, infusing meals with sunshine or moonlight.
Owner/chef Sarah Piccolo at the Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
The wine and beer list focuses on local work as well, with County Line Anderson Valley Rosé ($9), Reality Czeck Pilsner from Moonlight Brewing Company in Fulton ($5) and Sonoma’s Revive kombucha ($5), all on tap.
Back in 2010, Piccolo began parking her mobile eatery outside top Sonoma County wineries to supplement her catering business. Two years ago, she opened a brick-and-mortar shop on Main Street south of Highway 12 in Sebastopol, until relocating to her current spot at the end of last year.
The Roadhouse wedge with iceburg lettuce, cherry tomatoes, avocado, radish, boiled egg, bacon and blue cheese from the Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
At that time, she promised us “good, unfancy, affordable food.” While she indeed delivers that, the crowds here can concur she’s being a bit humble. Even a simple wedge salad is special, the cold, crunchy iceberg embellished with juicy cherry tomatoes, avocado, radish, boiled egg, Beeler’s bacon, Pt. Reyes bleu cheese dressing and more cheese crumbles for extra kick ($11).
Piccolo is a trained chef, having studied and worked in Italy and France before she got the idea to build a fully equipped kitchen in a 2001 Ford Grumman truck, complete with 10 burners, two ovens and an espresso bar. The truck still roars into service for special events, and so Fork is open only Thursday through Saturday, plus Sunday breakfast and lunch.
The wood fired pizza oven on the patio at the Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
We’re already spoiled with much West County dining, since chefs have to actually go out of their way to get low quality ingredients. But Piccolo presents the fine stuff in mouthwatering ways, and lets her cooks take the time to execute each dish; it can take a half hour for an entrée to arrive.
Yet it’s worth twiddling our thumbs when, at breakfast, a pork belly taco ($6; two for $11) brings a thick, char-griddled corn tortilla, mounded in succulent pig, braised leeks, watermelon radish spears, pickled red onion, cilantro, cotija, crema and the crowning touch, a golden fried egg that spills its yolk when pierced with a fork. The Tuscan bean breakfast is another joy, in a soupy Meyer lemon broth stew of white beans, kale and two fried eggs under a shower of Parmesan with thick griddled toast for sopping ($13).
Sebastian Chevrolet makes pizza in the wood fired oven at the Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
Menus change week to week, though some signatures stay put, like the breakfast polenta ($8.50), a savory bowl of steaming hot organic cornmeal dotted with Laura Chenel chèvre, tart braised greens, gomasio (sesame seeds and salt) and a poached egg, all scooped up with griddled bread.
One night’s poblano braised chicken was delicious, the bone-in bird nestled in a pond of slightly spicy chile cream sauce, melding in with accompanying black beans and chunky creamed corn ($20).
Another night, chicken was prepared saltimbocca style with sage brown butter ($20). For the poblano, I would have liked a bit more spice, and for the saltimbocca, more salt, but I can appreciate Piccolo’s clean style.
Pistachio and pepita encrusted wild salmon with grapefruit lime sauce, creme fraiche mashers and heirloom tomato panzanella from the Fork Roadhouse on Bodega Ave. east of Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
Wild salmon ($28) needed nothing, however. On its own, the barely seasoned fish was bland, but thanks to a thick, crispy coat of crushed pistachio and pepita and a touch of grapefruit lime sauce, it all came together.
A side of creme fraiche mashers added some tang with a bit of red potato skin left in, while a panzanella salad was one of the best I’ve had, stocked with a variety of crunchy and soft squash amid the heirloom tomato and bread chunks.
Sipping an Equator coffee ($2.50) and nibbling a slice of strawberry rhubarb pie ($8), I watched other diners around me with a great feeling of content. Life is good in Wine Country, and Fork is one of the reasons why.
Sage Fifield, left, and Kevin Carducci, right, of The Easy Leaves. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
Americana duo The Easy Leaves has paired up with F.E.E.D Sonoma, Sonoma County Farm Trails, Strong Arm Farm, and The School Garden Network, to put on what promises to be a “Harvest Honkey Tonk” at HopMonk Tavern in Sebastopol, this Friday, September 16.
The Sonoma County band, consisting of guitar player Sage Fifield and upright-bass player Kevin Carducci, has spent the past nine months touring the country and playing festivals such as Portland’s Pickathon. The duo has previously played at a number of Bay Area festivals, including Napa’s BottleRock and San Francisco’s OutsideLands. Several of their music videos, including “Fool on a String,” have screened on CMT.
The Easy Leaves at the Railroad Square Music Festival. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
This will be The Easy Leaves first hometown show since they released their latest album, “Fresno,” at the Railroad Square Music Festival in June.
“It’ll be nice to get back to a place filled with so many friendly familiar faces,” said Kevin Carducci. “The hometown vibe, you just can’t match it anywhere else. Sonoma County has a cool community of people that come together.”
The band is also looking forward to connecting with and supporting the local agricultural community.
“I think there’s a definite crossroads between the type of music that we’re into and the agricultural community. We wanted to help celebrate our own,” said Carducci. “Things are still pretty busy for a lot of farmers but we wanted to give people an excuse to cut loose and have a country-rager.”
Kevin Carducci, left, and Railroad Square Music Festival organizer Josh Windmiller, right. (Photo by Estefany Gonzalez)
While the band’s official line-up consists only of Fifield and Carducci, it expands for large performances and the duo books additional musicians by location.
“We have our band back in the bay with our regular dudes who are Bay Area country all-stars,” said Carducci, “We miss them so we’re excited to get back together with them.”
North Bay band regulars include Dave Zirbel on pedal steel or electric guitar, Vicente Rodriguez on drums, and Kyle O’Brien on fiddle. Mississippi Mike will also be joining The Easy Leaves on guitar at HopMonk and will open the show with his self-titled solo project. Other opening acts include Marin County country singer-songwriter Victoria George.
Concert attendees can expect the band to play tracks from their latest album, old classics, and songs they may not have heard before.
“It feels like we’re constantly a record or two ahead with the songs that we put in the rotation,” Carducci said. “People in Sonoma County haven’t seen us in a while. If they come out they’ll definitely hear new tunes as well as the ones that go back to the beginning of the band.”
Highway 12 stretches west from Sonoma County all the way east to Calveras County in central California. Winding from Sebastopol through Santa Rosa and Sonoma to the Napa County line, there are plenty of reasons to stop on this beautiful route.
Screamin’ Mimi’s – Sebastopol
Not just the winner of the Press Democrat’s Best Ice Cream in the Best of Sonoma County competition, this local spot on 6902 Sebastopol Ave in Sebastopol is a must for anyone with a sweet tooth. With plentiful ice cream flavors, sorbet, soda floats, milkshakes and even espresso drinks, Screamin’ Mimi’s is the place to be on a warm afternoon.
Screamin’ Mimi’s in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
The Barlow – Sebastopol
The Barlow in Sebastopol is a hub of local vendors: everything from wine to a hair salon to an art gallery to a smoothie bar and more can be found here. Not to mention delicious restaurants, such as Zazu Kitchen + Farm.
The Barlow in Sebastopol. (Photo by John Burgess)
Annadel State Park – Santa Rosa
As you pass the outskirts of Santa Rosa, you’ll want to stop at Annadel State Park. Established in 1971 this 5000+ acre park includes Lake Ilsanjo, where you can fish for black bass and bluegill. If hiking is more of your thing, check out the 35 miles of trails where you’ll see fields of wildflowers in the spring through the early summer.
Annadel State Park in Santa Rosa (Photo by Kent Porter)
Ledson Winery and Vineyards – Kenwood
A 16,000 square-foot French Normandy castle in the middle of the vineyard makes this winery in Kenwood hard to miss. Although the castle was built relatively recently in the late 1990s, the Ledson Winery has gained local fame for giving a European feel to the Sonoma wine experience.
Ledson Winery and Vineyards in Kenwood. (Photo courtesy of Ledson Winery)
Sugarloaf State Park – Kenwood
This park just outside of Kenwood has year-round campgrounds with 47 individual sites, over 25 miles of hiking trails ranging from beginner to challenging. Also, the year-round operated Robert Ferguson Observatory is open to the public for stargazing with a 40″ telescope.
Sugarloaf State Park in Kenwood. (Photo by Kent Porter)
Café Citti – Kenwood
With an average TripAdviser rating of 4.5 stars, it’s hard to go wrong with Café Citti. This unpretentious spot in Kenwood serves classic Italian dishes. It’s a great place to fill up on some food after wine tasting your way through Kenwood.
Café Citti in Kenwood. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)
Kunde Estate Winery and Vineyards – Kenwood
A historic winery with Sonoma roots reaching all the way back to 1904, Kunde Winery sits just passed Kenwood on Highway 12. This winery has been owned and operated by the same Sonoma County family for five generations, and it’s still going strong. Stop here for a glass of delicious wine, beautiful views and rich history.
Kunde Estate Winery in Kenwood. (Photo from The Press Democrat archive)
Quarryhill Botanical Garden – Glen Ellen
Plant lovers will enjoy a heavenly hike at hidden horticultural gem Quarryhill Botanical Garden in Glen Ellen. The garden is a lush cornucopia of endangered Asian plant life grown from seed during the last quarter century.
Asian Lilies at Quarryhill Botanical Garden in Glen Ellen. (Photo by Joshua Dylan Mellars)
Bouverie Preserve – Glen Ellen
In between Kenwood and Sonoma lies Bouverie Preserve a magnificent 535-acre nature sanctuary that features a rich and distinct combination of plants and animals, including more than 130 species of birds, 350 species of flowering plants, and numerous large mammals such as the bobcat, gray fox and coyote. Make sure to plan ahead as the Preserve offers guided nature walks only on select weekends.
Bouverie Preserve in Glen Ellen. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
Sonoma Valley Regional Park – Glen Ellen
Near Glen Ellen right off of Highway 12 is were you will find this gorgeous park. With several different trails for everything including hiking, dirt biking, horseback riding and dog walking, there is a trail for adventures of all types.
Sonoma Valley Regional Park in Glen Ellen. (Photo by Crista Jeremiason)
Happy Dog – Sonoma
The Happy Dog on 18962 Sonoma Hwy isn’t anything fancy, and it’s not trying to be. This Sonoma restaurant has a simple menu that serves up great hamburgers and hot dogs, all with BBQ sauce. If you’re on a budget and craving a greasy burger and fries, this is the place to do it.
Happy Dog in Sonoma. (Photo by Christopher Chung)
Cornerstone Gardens – Sonoma
A few miles off Highway 12 you can find Cornerstone Sonoma, a complex of retail and gardens. The property features more than 20 walk-through garden installations that change and are updated by visiting landscape artists, as well as a small number of retail shops, two art galleries, a restaurant and three wineries. Sunset, the iconic lifestyle magazine, recently moved their kitchen and test gardens to Cornerstone in order to have a better place for the editors and staff to test their ideas.
Cornerstone Sonoma. (Photo by Kent Porter)
Sonoma Grille – Sonoma
Sitting right on Napa St. in Sonoma, where Highway 12 crosses through the town, is Sonoma Grille. This Cal-Italian restaurant has everything from rack of lamb to BBQ oysters to beef carpaccio.
Sonoma Grille in Sonoma. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
Dehli Belly Indian Restaurant – Sonoma
If you’re craving something more than normal Sonoma food fare, check out Delhi Belly at 522 Broadway in Sonoma, an Indian eatery with wine, beer and traditional dishes in colorful, stylish quarters.
Delhi Belly Restaurant in Sonoma. (Photo by Heather Irwin)
TrainTown – Sonoma
TrainTown is a child’s paradise. This mini amusement park in Sonoma charms children with running trains, kiddy rides and appropriate fun for kids 10 and under that is sometimes hard to find at amusement parks.
TrainTown in Sonoma. (Photo by Beth Schlanker)
Fremont Diner – Sonoma
As you head east towards Napa on Highway 12, you’ll eventually hit Fremont Diner. This roadside eatery serves comfort food, more specifically “Grandma cooking” as head chef and owner Chad Harris puts it. He’s modernized the recipes for a Sonoma palate and takes advantage of local and fresh ingredients. The vintage décor and views of mountainous vineyards makes this a must stop.
Chicken biscuit and ham biscuit from Fremont Diner in Sonoma. (Photo by Chris Hardy)